New Zealand designer Olivia Cashmore’s made-to-order pieces are designed to bring joy
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL SOH FOR OLIVIA CASHMORE
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I’m always trying to create garments that look elegant and are easy to wear and durable. [I want to design pieces] that really do last a lifetime.”
Despite her eponymous label only just marking its first anniversary, Olivia Cashmore is wise beyond her design years. Based out of Auckland, Olivia creates elegant made-to-order garments with a focus on sustainability, longevity and ease of wear. Olivia’s unisex collection speaks to her knowledge of fit and quality; comprised of simple separates, delicate draping and boyish tailoring contrasted with feminine touches.
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After cutting her teeth over four years at New Zealand design house Maggie Marilyn, Olivia refined her skills by creating bespoke bridal gowns – first for friends, then for a wider circle of brides in the know. Now celebrating one year of her emerging label, Olivia reflects on the journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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I started sewing at a very young age. My grandmother was also a talented seamstress, so I must’ve gotten it from her! My mum had grandma’s sewing machine lying around at the house. After spying on something online I couldn’t afford, I decided to have a go at making it myself The whole process was so invigorating… I just didn’t stop. I loved how I could picture something, design it and then bring it to life.
After graduating I was lucky enough to land a job at Maggie Marilyn and worked there for four years. I started in production but later moved to sampling and design. Wearing many hats was an ideal starting point for me because I learned so much. It was so special being a part of that business and we had the best team; all learning and growing together.
I got into bridal [design] while I was at university. My sister-in-law and a few of my friends got married and asked me to make their dresses. This sparked my passion for the couture side of the business. Being able to spend a long time on something and creating it for a special day is a cool experience. Word [about my bridal design] got around through acquaintances, so I continued to collaborate with brides while working full time.
This is now a side of my business I still enjoy. Generally speaking, I’m quite a tomboy with the way I dress… I often wear oversized pieces with a blazer [over the top]. But there’s also an ultra-feminine side of me, where I’ll get dressed up for no real reason. The mix of ready-to-wear collections and bridal is perfect for me.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
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I left my job at the start of 2021 and I planned to have three months off. Because I love creating, I was making things for myself ‘for fun’ and I just decided it was time to give my own thing a go. Luckily, the garage at my flat was only used for drying our laundry, so my very kind flatmates agreed to let me turn the space into my workroom.
Being very aware of the waste within the fashion industry, I decided to launch my label based on a pre-order model. I wanted to use this as a tool to get to know my customers and treated it as a type of ‘speed dating’. I’m a real jokester, so having a humorous side to the brand came naturally. Life can be quite serious a lot of the time. I knew from the start I wanted the brand to bring some laughter, lightness and cheer into people’s lives. Pre-orders were a great way to start a business without having to invest too much.
Of course, most of us find it hard to wait for things. As great as the pre-orders have been, they’ve also been a challenge. People can’t try their size on and it’s a bit of a guessing game. It takes time for people to trust you, to know your fit and quality.
We always want things right away. I have to keep reminding myself it takes time to grow. Despite having big goals, I also want to make sure I enjoy the journey and am content with each step of growth.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
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As I said, I started playing around at first to satisfy my love for the craft. As it evolved and turned into a business, I wanted to make sure that whether it’s a business of only me or one of 200 staff – people are always foremost. [I want people to be] supported, honoured, paid fairly and welcomed through my doors.
Quality is a huge thing for me. The fabric, construction and the way the garment is looked after to ensure longevity are integral parts of what I do. I always want the business to make those a priority. One of my slogans is ‘Designed to age well’.
Another tagline I use is ‘Leftovers aren’t cool unless it’s mum’s lasagne’. Of course, a great meal will never have leftovers. As challenging as it is, I want to manage my stock levels to ensure I don’t have styles sitting [around and] gathering dust. This was the big reason I decided to start with pre-orders. I didn’t know what my customers would like. This way, I just make to order.
However, to celebrate my first birthday this week I’ve created a capsule collection of three garments. I have stock of these pieces for the first time. Going forward, I will have a combination of stock and pre-orders while I continue to gain momentum. I’m always trying to create garments that look elegant, are also easy to wear and are durable. [I want to design pieces] that really do last a lifetime.
How would you describe Olivia Cashmore to someone who’s never seen it before?
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Olivia Cashmore strives to offer pieces that bridge the gap between formal and casual. With a focus on exceptional fabrics and the simplest of details, our designs are intended to slip almost unnoticed into your existing wardrobe. We’re not afraid of colour and try to push the boundaries with design while still ensuring each piece is wearable and will be cherished and cared for years to come.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
As I write this, I’m actually getting ready to celebrate my first year in business. Only this week have I realised the importance of this milestone and how proud of myself I actually am! As we are all very aware, the last couple of years have been challenging… celebrating this past year is a big pat on the back.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
I feel very grateful for my time and experience at my previous job. It was a new business so we were all learning together! I’ve definitely brought those learnings with me which has been incredibly helpful.
One thing [I’m struggling with] at the moment is loneliness. I predominantly work by myself and although I’m productive (because I don’t get interrupted), I’m finding I miss the company of others.
What about the local fashion industry needs to change?
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We need a shift in attitude towards the physically laborious jobs like sewing, cutting and the general manufacturing side of this industry. Most people who study fashion want to be designers but there’s a whole other side of the industry that is so important! Sadly the people who do these jobs currently are older. Younger people don’t seem to want to learn these skills.
As local brands grow and demand increases, the worry is about who is going to make the garments. I think the fashion industry would benefit from apprenticeships. This would be a great opportunity to gain knowledge and new skills whilst still getting paid for your work. I think having an understanding of these roles (sample machinist, production machinist, pattern maker, cutter, etc) only adds to you being a better designer.
Dream local collaborators?
I love art and have always loved the hybrid of fashion and fine arts – ‘wearable art’, some might say. Such a special combination of two different mediums that provoke feelings, attitudes and everything in between. I have a potential (very exciting) collaboration in the pipeline. Stay tuned!
Go-to dinner party playlist?
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I’m a big R&B, jazz or blues girl. Anything from these genres is my go-to. Erykah Badu or Ms Lauryn Hill is a good time. I often prefer listening to albums rather than playlists. Like clothing, they tell a story and I find this [to be] a really special experience. I’m also really liking Otis Kane and Tems at the moment, anything mellow with a nice beat.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
After dreaming of having my own label since I was 12 years old, I can finally say [my wardrobe] is full of Olivia Cashmore. It makes me feel so proud and a bit emotional to get dressed in my own designs every day. I am a big old Céline fan so I often hunt for second-hand finds. The shoes are so comfortable and I think they pare back nicely with my pieces.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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Through my website – we ship worldwide! I also recently opened a showroom space in Newmarket, Auckland so if you’re ever in New Zealand please pop in and say hi. I love to meet my customers.
Browse the Olivia Cashmore collection here.
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