The Visionaries: Meet the Melbourne designer creating bridalwear unbound by tradition

“Part of the creativity is finding what isn’t being done.”

Working in fashion media offers access and insight to a talented collective of original and creative thinkers. This group has inspired The Visionaries, a series made in collaboration with Specsavers that squares our focus on three Australian women whose vision is unmatched.

Courtney Illfield took an unconventional path into bridalwear. Beginning her career as a fashion and wedding photographer, the Melbourne-based creative made her foray into wedding dresses after hearing the frustrations of brides-to-be. 

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“Ten years ago, there was nothing on the Australian market that was non-traditional in aesthetic or approach,” explains Courtney. “I found myself in conversations with many women struggling to find a wedding dress that felt aligned to their day-to-day style, that didn’t fit the normal mould of a traditional bride.”

In Western cultures, the ‘normal mould’ of bridalwear had remained practically unchanged for centuries. In 1804, Queen Victoria donned a white satin, lace-trimmed gown to marry Prince Albert, forging a fashion tradition that has managed to persist, despite how radically our understanding of marriage and weddings has shifted.

This dissonance spurred Courtney to start her own bridal wear label, Lola Varma. Since 2016, she’s dedicated her work to those who don’t want to be bound by convention. “The women who [don’t] connect with the common sweep of garments, the traditional details, the dated silhouettes,” she says. “Part of the creativity is finding what isn’t being done, there is so much repetition within the industry.”

Through Courtney’s eye, the boundaries of bridalwear get redrawn in surprising and original ways. From sculptural looks and magically draped silks to minimalist two-piece sets and frilled gloves, each piece feels contemporary and at home in the wider fashion landscape. 

Courtney’s approach to design is unconventional, looking to films, vintage fashion, old-school photography and even the plants growing in her garden for inspiration. However, it’s her actual vision she considers “the most important thing” for her creative process, as her role demands a strong eye for detail. Her style is effortlessly cool (she favours Jonathon Anderson and The Row) and as a glasses-wearer, she’s particular about the frames she likes. For her day with Fashion Journal, she chooses pieces from the Mimco Eyewear range exclusive to Specsavers, from timeless black statement frames to a subtle and sleek wire-framed design. 

Similar to her designs, Courtney has set up Lola Varma’s showrooms in stark contrast to the wider industry, prioritising a bride’s comfort and involvement in the process. Each of her brick-and-mortar locations (found in Fitzroy and Redfern) is a departure from the pomp we tend to associate with the world of weddings, boasting chic, modernist furniture and a refreshingly un-bridal aesthetic. “They’re pared back and homely. No chandeliers, no champagne,” explains Courtney. “We serve tea and offer a service for the bride that wants something different.”

Notably, Lola Varma has also merged its showroom with its workshop into a single space. Brides are invited to see the brand’s garments take life before their eyes, from draping to pinning to stitching and beyond. “It’s really important to know where your clothes come from… There aren’t many clothing labels left in Australia producing entirely onshore [so] I’m always proud of this accomplishment,” says Courtney. 

Perhaps what’s most visionary about Lola Varma’s approach is her commitment to comfort. It’s a somewhat radical move in the context of the bridal industry, but Courtney’s years as a wedding photographer afforded her a unique understanding of the modern bride and their needs. 

“Over the years of photographing weddings, and specifically brides, all around the world and in an array of cultures, I realised that comfort is paramount to being present on such a significant day. Not just comfort within an outfit but comfort within yourself and your skin. That’s the foundation of Lola Varma, encouraging brides to search for comfort, not trends nor obligations.”

This article was originally published in Fashion Journal issue 196.

The new Specsavers Mimco Eyewear range is available exclusively in-store and online. To browse the range, head here.