How these three made-to-order Victorian brands are challenging overconsumption
“It’s a beautiful thing to feel satisfied and proud of the clothes you choose to shop and what that statement means for our environment and ourselves.”
If you’re reading this, we probably don’t need to tell you that overconsumption is a massive problem in the fashion industry. The harsh truth is that fashion companies making the most money are mass-producing in ways we can’t even fathom. Why do we need to have the latest trend in our wardrobe? We don’t. But marketing and advertising harness strong psychological tools that we react to without even realising it.
Thankfully, there are some really incredible local labels doing work that goes against mainstream methods of fashion production. Their perseverance and passion are slowly changing the minds of communities when it comes to conscious consumption.
Creative Victoria is here to honour the designers behind these labels by uplifting and investing in Victoria’s creative sector. I don’t know about you, but I’d prefer to spend a little extra money and invest in a made-to-order piece I’ll have forever. We caught up with the founders of three Melbourne-based fashion labels that are championing the art of slow fashion. Read on to hear about the reasons behind their practices.
Perple
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Born in 2019 with a vision to create ethical, trendless womenswear, Perple is not dictated by the traditional fashion calendar. This allows it to create designs freely, directed by inspiration instead. With a focus on androgynous, modern silhouettes and beautiful craftsmanship, Perple is a proudly made-to-order label.
“Every garment has an enduring heart with a care and focus on delivering quality sustainable products,” Perple’s Founder and Designer Huiliana Chandra-Curry tells me. Not only is each Perple piece handcrafted for each individual customer, it also offers a made-to-measure service to clients.
“Each garment is pattern-made, cut and sewn in-house from mostly deadstock material, only once the order is placed. This allows Perple to be more mindful about waste reduction and have a sustainable and ethical approach to manufacturing,” Huiliana says.
Huiliana holds hope that the future of fashion will evolve in a more conscious way. “More and more people have changed the way they shop, moving away from something cheap and quick to investing in a piece of quality clothing that they can wear for a long time,” she adds.
“I think people are starting to realise that an investment in time and process when it comes to clothes translates into how they feel when wearing them. It’s a beautiful thing to feel satisfied and proud of the clothes you choose to shop and what that statement means for our environment and ourselves.”
Penthouse Jeans
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There’s not much in this world more dreamy than a pair of made-to-order jeans – especially when they’re made with upcycled denim. Melbourne-based label Penthouse Jeans knows this well. Penthouse Jeans is an independent, up-and-coming label that explores the versatility of upcycled denim. It works with clients to achieve their vision, rather than focusing solely on creating ready-to-wear collections.
“More often than not, the humble denim jean flies under the radar,” says Founder and Designer Charlotte Campbell. “Our work aims to reframe the wardrobe staple as the star of the show while paying homage to its evolution throughout eras and the memories it carries after a lifetime with the wearer.”
As a label that focuses on made-to-order designs, Charlotte still tries to produce collections seasonally. When she does release a range, it acts as a way to explore new ideas that clients may need more time to try. “We are always working on new methods of textile manipulation and this is a great opportunity for experimentation,” she says.
Charlotte hopes the rise of upcycled materials used by established brands and smaller designers alike causes fashion lovers to reflect on their wardrobes more consciously. “Perhaps by seeing designers working in this way, more consumers can find ways that they can upcycle their existing pieces themselves into something they consider more valuable,” she says.
HB Archive
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Made-to-order Melbourne label HB Archive is essentially a library of pieces founder Holly has been wearing, loving and tweaking over the years. Since its beginnings in 2018, it’s become a collection of considered and versatile staple pieces. Everything Holly designs is intended to work year-round and for any occasion. “I try to be very considered with my own belongings and this continues through to the garments and accessories I choose to bring into the world,” Holly tells me.
Currently working with a monthly preorder system, Holly spotlights certain pieces, colours and fabrics each month. Sending out a newsletter on the first of each month, she’s able to reach her loyal client base with the month’s focus and what will be available. She’s found this system to be super effective.
“I only introduced this way of ordering a year or so ago and it’s really helped streamline my making, reducing planning and production times,” she says. “I can cut all of one fabric or type of garment out at a time, keeping the same coloured thread on my machines… It’s also really fun and it keeps us feeling inspired, both in our work and the way we wear our own clothes.”
Holly also finds that the made-to-order format helps customers to plan and save up for their purchases. “Pieces may be at a higher price point, but they also have a longer wait time from time of purchase to dispatch… You don’t have to drop money right away!”
And while Holly acknowledges that made-to-order is integral for an environmentally-conscious future, she also loves the size inclusivity it allows for. “Being the maker, I can tweak to fit individual needs. When I began HB, I was working in full-time clothing retail and would see the way some women would respond to a size on the tag.
“With made-to-order, I can adjust waists, hips or lengths to make the perfect custom size for each person and their beautiful body. Like I said to a customer recently – clothing is supposed to fit you, not the other way around.” HB Archives lives by the philosophy that instead of buying five cheaper not-quite-right pairs of pants off the rack, it can create one that fits, feels and looks great – a piece you can’t help but reach for each day.
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