“Pick the less likely option”: Why TikTok’s ‘wrong shoe theory’ is so right

“A shoe can really make or break your look, so sometimes the most obvious choice can actually just make your look feel… a little boring.”

The power of footwear to spoil an outfit – or take it to the next level – isn’t exactly a revolutionary idea, given the fashion world has been a little obsessed with shoes lately. There’s no denying the chokehold the Adidas Sambas still have on Pinterest boards or the revival of pointy kitten heels I swore I’d never take part in (I did).

We can’t seem to get enough of shoe-related content, particularly online. It’s only been six months since the ‘clothes sandwiching’ method collectively swept through our For You Pages on TikTok, encouraging us to consider planning our outfits with a little more rigour like Cher did in Clueless.

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Shoes, in my humble opinion, are one of the most playful ways to take an outfit from bland to cool. They also slyly show off your style prowess without being too ostentatious. They’re a seriously overlooked element of dressing and a great way to experiment without committing to a full aesthetic overhaul.

There’s never been a better time to understand the impact of sourcing and selecting the right footwear. This leads us to the ‘wrong shoe theory’ – the philosophy that pairing an outfit with a shoe combination that appears incompatible (or ‘wrong’) is actually a foolproof way to create a more interesting look.

What is it?

Coined by American celebrity stylist Allison Bornstein, the wrong shoe theory took off on TikTok and thousands of creators have chimed in to show off their own takes since. If you’re still scratching your head, essentially, the theory is centred around the idea that a more jarring choice of shoe will create contrast in your outfit, making it look more intentional and styled.

On the theory, Allison says “A shoe can really make or break your look, so sometimes the most obvious shoe [choice] can actually just make your look feel expected… [or] maybe even a little boring”. Her best advice? “Pick the less likely option.” Allison also believes the same thinking can be applied to handbags. Really, it’s all about choosing the option that feels a little off or wrong in some way, making sure your outfit isn’t ‘one note’.

Why are ugly shoes having a moment?

Interestingly, people these days are often reaching for the more out-there (or ugly) shoes to stand out from the crowd. We’ve all clocked the renaissance of Mary Janes and ballet flats, shoes that only a few years ago were considered ‘daggy’.

In the same vein, the iconic Maison Margiela Tabis are intriguingly one of the hottest ugly shoes right now, despite their eye-watering price tag and eccentric… design. What was once considered an ‘art school niche’ is now a mainstay in the wardrobe of fashion girlies everywhere (Olivia Rodrigo, for example).

But why are we so obsessed with ugly shoes? Maybe in the wake of COVID – where we were forced to take comfort and practicality to extreme lengths – we’ve become reacquainted with the allure of traditionally ‘ugly’ shoes and their often function-first features.

Maybe it has more to do with the growing discourse on rejecting conventional fashion and beauty standards. Maybe it’s just about having fun with our wardrobe choices and taking pride in unapologetically liking what we like, even if it’s unpopular.

No matter the reason, switching up your footwear to something a little weirder is the perfect way to play around with your style. If you’re keen to incorporate more colour into a look, chucking on a bold-coloured shoe is a lot safer than wearing a vibrant hue from head to toe.

How can you apply the wrong shoe theory to your own wardrobe?

Next time you’re about to head out the door – be it for a date, dinner, coffee or special event – inspect your shoe collection and try to select something that feels almost the opposite of the rest of your outfit. For example, chunky cowboy boots and formal apparel (like a suit set or dress), thongs with a knitted sweater and jeans, a high heel with casual cargo pants, a chunky dad sneaker with a full-length, feminine sundress… are you catching on?

If you have a feeling you’re picking out the wrong shoe, that means you’re doing it right. Ultimately, it’s about flipping the ‘expected’ colour, shape and style of the shoe on its head. Above all, have fun with it!

For more on how to nail ‘wrong shoe theory’, head here.