How to protect your skin barrier in winter, according to a dermal therapist

“Many people try to compensate by overcorrecting.”

Whenever I introduce something new to my routine, my skin is notoriously temperamental. Between breakouts and eczema flare-ups, having sensitive skin means I’ve learnt to tread carefully. It makes sense, then, that much like a new product, a shift in seasons can wreak just as much havoc.

According to dermal therapist, Sheridan Damjanovic, your skincare routine should function seasonally, just like your wardrobe. “Ultimately, every season introduces a different form of stress to the skin,” she explains. “Heat can exacerbate conditions like melasma and spring can trigger inflammatory and histamine-related responses.”

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When it comes to autumn and winter, cold temperatures can cause increased dryness, dehydration and windburn. “I commonly see rosacea flare-ups, increased skin reactivity and a general feeling of tightness during winter,” she adds.

As expected, indoor environments with heaters and dry indoor air can be just as challenging. However, the biggest culprit might be the one you least suspect.

“One thing I wish more clients would stop doing is putting their face directly under very hot shower water. Don’t get me wrong, I love hot showers, but they can strip the skin of essential lipids and leave it feeling tight, reactive and compromised.”

Signs your skin barrier might be struggling

One tell-tale sign that your skin might be reacting to the change in seasons is a sudden or increased sensitivity to products that have previously caused no issues. “Often, clients will notice that products they’ve used comfortably suddenly start to feel irritating or just stop working,” Sheridan explains.

“You might also notice tightness, increased reactivity, congestion, rough texture, unexpected breakouts or changes in how your skin behaves.” This doesn’t necessarily mean your skin is dehydrated – it may also be a sign that something in your routine isn’t working in the cooler weather.

For example, while foaming and gel cleansers work well in summer, they can feel harsh and stripping if your skin is already feeling tight and dehydrated. For winter, you might swap this out for a gentle and hydrating cream or oil cleanser.

Another option is taking a break from actives. If your skin is struggling with the cold change, it’s worth reducing how often you use products like retinol to give your barrier a chance to calm down.

Winter skincare staples

Although each person’s skincare routine should be tailored to their specific needs, Sheridan’s personal regimen typically consists of squalane and a hydrating toner.

“Squalane is an excellent ingredient to look out for,” she explains. “It’s perfect for supporting hydration and helping reinforce the skin barrier. It literally acts like an armour, stopping trans-epidermal water loss. It’s also well tolerated across different skin types, including acne-prone skin, as it is non-comedogenic.”

That being said, she’s conscious of adding that no single ingredient will magically fix your skin barrier. While a strong advocate for applying sunscreen daily (“UV exposure still remains a concern throughout winter!”), her advice is to tread slowly. “Protecting your barrier starts with understanding what your skin needs. Learning how to read your skin is a skill set in its own right.”

Why less is more

When your skin is reacting, it can be tempting to overload on product, trying to find a solution. However, according to Sheridan, this is often where people go wrong. “Many people try to compensate by overcorrecting. They take very hot showers, use overly rich creams or stop exfoliating altogether because they assume their skin is too dry.”

Her suggestion is to hold off on introducing any new products for at least two weeks. From there, continue with gentle exfoliation. “Winter is actually a great time to continue gentle exfoliation,” she adds. “Without regular exfoliation, dead skin cells can accumulate, leaving the skin feeling congested and preventing active ingredients from penetrating effectively. The key is finding the right balance and adjusting products seasonally.”

Rather than panicking and adding more, the key to restoring your skin barrier in winter is by creating a seasonal rotation – a ‘wardrobe’ of skincare. And when in doubt, it’s always worth consulting a facialist for tailored advice.

For more on skin barriers, try this.