City Guide: Photographer and writer Constance McDonald’s guide to Dunedin, New Zealand
IMAGE VIA @PRINCESS.CONSTANCE/INSTAGRAM
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
From cliffside beaches to the city library.
Here at Fashion Journal, we want to unearth the hidden spots in Australian cities that only the locals know about. There’s no gatekeeping here – this is a breakdown of the best bits of our cities. We want the underrated date spots, favourite restaurants, treasure trove op shops and the bars people will always want to go back to.
This week, we’re heading to the New Zealand city of Dunedin with photographer, writer and “angel’s advocate”, Constance McDonald. Constance grew up in Dunedin, attending the same school from preschool to year 13. After living in Wellington for several years, Constance has moved back to her hometown temporarily. “[I’m back] for a brief jaunt because my sister had a baby called Teddy, and I am a very enthusiastic member of the Teddy fan club,” she explains.
Have a trip or move coming up? Head to our city guide to find the best spots.
Constance has very long hair and loves Leonard Cohen, shells (especially queen conches) and tacky hotels. “Contrary to the rumours, Dunedin is a sexy city with a lot to give,” Constance says. “It has the only castle in New Zealand… just don’t compare it to that one you just saw in Scotland.” Read on for her city guide and recommendations, ranging from cliffside beaches to the city library.
Favourite spots
The Warrington Love Hedge, Hill Road, Warrington
View this post on Instagram
Constance recommends visiting the Warrington Love Hedge, a local landmark made by devoted husband Chris Skillett to show his love for his wife, Lois. Kept closely trimmed for almost 20 years, Constance says “The hedge is a beautiful site of love and devotion. A husband has kept this topiary shaped for decades”.
Larnah Castle, 145 Camp Road, Otago Peninsula
“If you are around in July, Larnach Castle holds their Annual Winter Ball where everyone dresses up á la Portrait of a Lady on Fire. Also, be sure to look at ‘Constance’s Boudoir’ upstairs in the Castle.”
Tunnel Beach, 25 Tunnel Beach Road, Blackhead
View this post on Instagram
“I love a story. You’ve probably seen photos of Tunnel Beach… its high cliffs and turbulent waters make for a great photo. You can never catch her at a bad time,” Constance says. “Drilled through the cliff is the tunnel that gives the beach its name. John Cargill, when he was flush with cash, had this tunnel made in the 1870s so his daughters could have a private beach for swimming and bathing. The story goes that one or two of his daughters drowned there. True or not, I would not recommend this beach for swimming.”
The Cliffs, Highgrove, St Clair
View this post on Instagram
“John Cargill also built the residence, known as The Cliffs, up from this beach,” Constance says. “After the Cargill family died, the dwelling was used as a cabaret and then a religious building; but went up in flames and now it is in ruins. Many teenagers have their first kiss and first no-chaser vodka there. So don’t intrude! Look at it from a distance.”
Speight’s Brewery Spring, 200 Rattray Street, Central Dunedin
“If you’re walking down Rattray Street and your water bottle is feeling a bit light, it is fun to stop off at the Speight’s water tap, which is pumped directly from a spring! It is free, operating 24/7, and maybe even Lourdes-level quality. You can often see people filling tens of litres of containers and filling their car boots. Side note – this website Find a Spring is an excellent one to save to your bookmarks.”
St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool, Esplanade, St Clair
View this post on Instagram
Since you can’t take a dip at Tunnel Beach, Constance suggests checking out the St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool. The only surviving salt water pool of the 1800s (sensing a historical theme here?), the St Clair pool is heated to a lovely 28 degrees celsius. “If you can’t get to Bondi, come to Dunedin,” Constance says.
Eat
The Flying Squid, 118 Albany Street, Dunedin North
For food, Constance recommends The Flying Squid, a takeaway shop dedicated to all things deep-fried and delicious. Nostalgic, affordable and reliable, she says The Flying Squid “has the best shoestring fries” she’s ever tasted.
Plato, 2 Birch Street, Central Dunedin
View this post on Instagram
Located in central Dunedin, Plato is a waterfront restaurant offering fresh ingredients, local produce and some of the city’s best seafood. “I still haven’t met a better duck patê,” Constance says. “You cannot go wrong on this menu.”
Kamome Japanese Cafe and Bar, 302 Highgate, Roslyn
Kakome is the cafe and bar dishing up authentic Japanese cuisine in a cosy, welcoming setting. “I always feel like Kamome,” Constance says. “My friend Phoebe and I go there often for the freshest tuna and salmon sashimi, agedashi tofu and a glass of umeshu or two. Be sure to book, the restaurant is very small and adored.”
Drink
The Bog, 387 George Street, Central Dunedin
@cashmere.qt #foryou #foryoupage #fyp ♬ original sound – Cashmere.qt
“On a Monday night at 7.30pm, you’ll find me with my mum, dad and three other teammates battling it out at The Bog pub quiz with jugs of beer and a Bog Basket (chips, squid rings, fish bites). We are always trying to get first place so the $50 bar tab pays for a good chunk of the night. My dad got a stamp made with our quiz name on it so we don’t have to write it on every page.”
Shop
Dunedin iSite Visitor Information Centre, 50 The Octagon, Dunedin
View this post on Instagram
“Pick up a free Dunedin bumper sticker. You’ve probably seen the iconic Dunedin T-shirts made by Nom*d. The Dunedin City Council loved it so much, they based the entire city’s visual identity on it (with permission from Nom*d). The bumper sticker simply says ‘Dunedin’ in that gothic font.”
Corso Centre Inc, 111 Moray Place, Central Dunedin
“My favourite op shop. You have to dig, but they make it worth your while with frequent ‘fill a bag for $5’ deals. I have found Prada, Vivienne Westwood, Miu Miu and lots of cashmere here.”
Dunedin City Library, 230 Moray Place, Central Dunedin
View this post on Instagram
As a bonus, Constance says “the iSite and Corso are close by to Dunedin City Library. Charge your phone at the Library and check out the very yellow bathrooms on level two”.
Date night
Lovers Leap, Sandymount Road, Sandymount
View this post on Instagram
“I took to Manatū Taonga (Ministry for Culture and Heritage) to try to shed light on the naming of this geographic feature,” Constance explains. “Gareth Phipps wrote an email back stating ‘Wises New Zealand Guide (1987) include the following (vanilla) description of Dunedin’s Lovers Leap… probably, like any other cliffs with this name world over, commemorates some incident, legendary or otherwise, of lovers, leaping to their death’. I can say for certain it is yonic. Maybe more of a third date location option.”
Indulge
Shine Bright Beauty, 295A Highgate, Roslyn
For “really sturdy acrylic nails”, Constance recommends Shine Bright Beauty. You can also treat yourself to an eyebrow wax, lash tint, gel manicure, lash extensions… the list goes on.
Stay
Lisburn House, 15 Lisburn Avenue, Caversham
View this post on Instagram
“If you are coming to Dunedin and need a place to stay, try to get the Rose Room at Lisburn House Bed and Breakfast. [It’s got] a four poster bed, [with] lace everywhere. You’ll get the photos you need.”
You can follow Constance here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
