City Guide: Why a visit to Yerevan, Armenia’s capital should be on your bucket list
Photography and words by Constance McDonald
A writer’s guide to one of the oldest cities in the world.
Here at Fashion Journal, we want to unearth the hidden spots in cities that only the locals know about. There’s no gatekeeping here – this is a breakdown of the best bits: the underrated date spots, treasure trove op shops and the most awe-inspiring places people will always want to go back to.
This week, we received postcards from writer and photographer, Constance McDonald, all the way from Yerevan. Admittedly, we didn’t know much about the Armenian capital before reading her travel notes but now, we have a visit to this ancient city firmly on our bucket list.
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Whether you’re looking for a destination that’s way off the tourist trail, or you’re a seasoned European traveller running out of Schengen days, Armenia has a strong drawcard. With an Australian or New Zealand passport, you get 180 days on arrival – no paperwork, no fuss.
Constance has been clomping around Yerevan in her goat-hair Yeti boots, “in an après-ski kind of way, except it’s still summer,” she writes. “They were sulking in my suitcase so I had to give them some love.” She’s also been visiting museums, eating fresh pomegranate and getting tattooed by locals.
Being a #sologirltraveller naturally invites conversations, especially when you’re wearing furry boots. But for Constance, this was perfect. “I’m a shameless freak about asking the questions I want answers to: Where should I eat? Where are the glorious piles of second-hand clothes spread out on tarpaulins? What’s the best sweet thing I can put in my mouth right now? Where can I buy a beautiful new notebook?”
Below, she shares some of that divine intelligence and all the juicy details: eSims, ride share apps, where to watch the sun set into the city, the flea market she found Manolo Blahniks for $3 AUD* and much more.
Where to stay in Yerevan
Yerevan is highly walkable. Book your accommodation accordingly and stay central. If you’re okay with hostels, they are around $12 AUD per night, or a hotel room is approx. $60 AUD a night. Alternatively, you can explore an eclectic range of Airbnbs and serviced apartments in the city.
Where to eat in Yerevan
Tun Lahmajo
23 Teryan Street
A sheet of dough rolled thin as a handkerchief, spread with finely minced lamb, onion, tomato, and parsley. Fired in seconds. Perfect with a cold 500mL Kilikia beer.
Gini Pig
20 Yeznik Koghbatsi Street
This place was recommended by a friend, Anastasia Doniants, who splits her time between Armenia and New Zealand. It’s cozy and refined, but not at all uptight. The pizza with basturma (spiced, cured beef) pairs beautifully with a glass of organic amber wine. I spent $24.50 AUD on a whole pizza and a glass of wine – it’s enough pizza for your breakfast the next day.
OST Bistro
20 Mesrop Mashtots Avenue
Another lahmajoun spot, this time go with lamb and cheese, and order their house-made tan. Tan is a cool, salted yogurt drink. It’s capped with foil you pierce with a straw. $10.30 AUD with tan, or $8.10 AUD without.
Zhengyalov Hatz
62 Teryan Street
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Flatbread filled with a wild profusion of herbs, chopped fine and layered. Hot, fragrant, vividly green and only $3.70 AUD.
Grand Candy
54/92–93 Mesrop Mashtots Avenue
In search of a sweet treat? Ponchiks are golden from their baptism in oil, swollen with chocolate that bursts at the first bite, topped with a generous pile of powdered sugar.
Where to get caffeinated
Lumen Coffee 1936
45 Mesrop Mashtots Avenue
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This building has lived a few lives, first as a tobacco shop in the 1930s, then in the 60s as a stationery shop, then as a bookshop, and now as a coffee spot called Lumen. The original interior, featuring intricate woodwork by Hovhannes Naghashyan, has been lovingly preserved. A latte cost me $6.15 AUD, an espresso martini was $8.10 AUD.
Vending machine coffee
Truthfully, I’ve become hopelessly devoted to the unmanned, automatic coffee vending machines on street corners. A cappuccino is $0.80 AUD.
What to do in Yerevan
Visit the Sergei Parajanov museum
Sergey Parajanov Street
Dedicated to the creator of the film The Color of Pomegranates, this museum houses an inspiring collection of his collages, installations, and personal artefacts. At the time of writing, one ticket cost $6.15 AUD.
Watch the sun set
Walk to the top of the Cascade (coordinates: 5GW8+28G) to this elevated spot to watch the sunset over the city with Mount Ararat in the backdrop. Get a fresh juice en route, there are hundreds of stalls around the city, I love orange and strawberry.
Peruse the flea market at Hrazdan Stadium parking lot
3 Athens Street
I try my darndest to not find myself at underwhelming, sanitised flea markets. This one is a stunner. Huge piles of second-hand clothes, cameras, shoes and more. Go on Saturday or Sunday. It’s big, I spent two hours there. Most pieces are between $1 to $4 AUD, I bought a real leather jacket for $3.70 AUD. A new outfit that costs less than a matcha in Melbourne awaits!
Remember to get cash before you go. If you’re walking there, there are a few ATMs along the way; I used the ACBA one in the right-hand-side foyer of the VIVA MTS building at 1 Argishti Street.
Explore TUMO Studios
Located at 44 Aram Street, TUMO Studios is one of the most exciting creative hubs in Armenia. Tucked inside a beautiful old building with high ceilings and three light-filled floors, you’ll find kilns and sewing machines, workshops and exhibitions spaces. On the ground floor there’s also a chic shop, open to everyone.
Here, you can take (free!) 10-day courses in everything from ceramics and jewellery, to leather-working and screen printing, each one taught by visiting artists from around the world.
And if you’re a maker yourself, you can even apply to lead a workshop. TUMO will cover your travel and accommodation. Some people come for two weeks, others end up staying for months.
Get a tattoo
If you want to get a tattoo, this guy is the sweetest angel, he works at Studio 13, located at 13 Yervand Kochar Street.
Where to stock up on supplies
Karmir Photo Lab
23 Gevorg Kochar Street
Need to buy 35mm or 120 film, develop and scan photos, or just want to hang out in a chic space over coffee? Karmir is the best of the best. It cost me $11 AUD to develop and scan 35mm.
Epigraph
43 Mesrop Mashtots Avenue
If you need a new notebook, a Klein Blue pastel, or if you just want to browse some Taschen books, this curated stationery, art, and book shop will scratch that itch.
Handy traveller tips
Go to Team Telecom Armenia (3 Amiryan Street) for an eSim, bring your passport. You can get 200GB for $14.50 AUD per month. Don’t worry, it won’t auto-renew or anything. It’s much better value to get an eSim here than online, or worse, roaming.
If you have your period and you are devastated by the idea of walking, the most commonly used ride share apps are GG (Armenian-owned) and Yandex. A 20 minute ride I took, for example, was $4.60 AUD.
Finally, should you find yourself in the devastatingly mundane predicament of having used up your clean underwear supply, Yerevan has exactly two laundromats: I used Laundry Point (17/1 Hanrapetutyan Street), it was $8 AUD for a big load.
* Currency note: All prices are listed in AUD. At the time of writing, 1 AUD ≈ 260 AMD (Armenian dram).
For more on exploring Yerevan, try this.
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