HB Archive is the Melbourne label helping to craft your conscious capsule wardrobe
PHOTOGRAPHY Zoe Baumgartner FOR HB ARCHIVE
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I like to think I only create pieces that will be loved for years to come.”
It’s easy to become disenchanted when trying to transition a creative pursuit to that more serious ‘next level’. So often the curtain begins to lift, leaving those cracks of the industry – be it art, fashion, music or otherwise – exposed. This is exactly what happened when Holly, the founder of conscious fashion label HB Archive, undertook fashion and design studies at RMIT. “After uni I felt pretty disappointed with the fashion industry,” she explains. “The Rana Plaza had collapsed during my final year… I realised I couldn’t participate in something that was causing so much harm.”
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But rather than giving up on the industry entirely, Holly sought out those working towards positive change. After completing an internship with Amy at Vege Threads, Holly found herself with new ideas and a fresh sense of hope. In June 2018, HB Archive was born, a “curation of carefully considered and created garments”. Below, Holly speaks on sustainable production, natural fibres and collaboration.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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G’day! I’m Holly and I run HB Archive. I’ve always loved sewing and creating. I remember making doll clothes in grade three (matching sets with hand-embroidered stars on them) and asking my teacher to stay in at lunchtime to learn how to knit. In high school, I studied fashion, digital media and dance. Not knowing what else to do, I thought I’d either go into dancing full-time or study a fashion degree.
I graduated from RMIT with a Bachelor of Science (Fashion Technology) in 2013. My older sister coincidentally chose to study fashion at the same time but did the Design (Honours) course. It was cool to not only learn all the practical things my course taught like pattern making, grading, and sewing but also see the more conceptual side of design at the same time.
After uni, I felt pretty disappointed with the fashion industry. The Rana Plaza collapsed during my final year. I’d gone to a talk where another factory owner in the area spoke and I realised I couldn’t participate in something that was causing so much harm.
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I sent an email to Amy at Vege Threads asking if I could intern for her. Through Amy, I got to see a different (and much more light-filled) side of the industry. Vege Threads was slow and thoughtful, and Amy was always so generous in sharing her knowledge [of] processes and suppliers. I helped Amy on and off for the next few years, getting to visit the local factories where the fabric was knitted. I worked at markets, packed orders and adjusted the back end of the website.
One day we drove by a vacant shopfront that would become the Vege Threads HQ, and I got to help make some of the fit-outs for the store. I did some grading and pattern work, sewed samples, briefly worked as a shop girl and eventually, Vege Threads became HB Archive’s first stockist! I’m still so thankful for Amy taking me in, giving me hope again and teaching me so much through experience.
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How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
Although I was deflated after graduating, it didn’t stop me from constantly designing, sewing, pattern-making and grading. I would make [outfits] for me and my friends for festivals and our themed house parties… I got my first studio sharing with my good friend Caitlyn (who is still one of my favourite muses and people today). I kept sewing for friends and nerding out over costing sheets, pattern blocks and size grading.
… Over the summer of 2016, I collaborated on a capsule label called Gary with my friend Alice (of Friendly Printers). We worked in concession stores next to each other in the department store [we worked in], and we’d draw designs on old receipts during quiet periods. Through Gary, I created the alternative sizing system still in place for HB. I learnt so much from this experience working with Alice and our suppliers – about collaborating, photoshoots and more.
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I also really enjoyed the business side of it (again, costing sheets!). We both went travelling and when I came back this time, I quit my retail job and decided to explore making HB a real thing. I luckily had most of the systems in place already out of my nerdy practice over the years. I enrolled in the NEIS program and had the first web shoot with Caitlyn in my old Collingwood apartment before officially opening the website in June 2018.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
Primarily, HB was an outlet to be creative. As I mentioned earlier, sewing is something I’ve been doing since I can remember –plus I enjoyed making costing sheets and pattern-making. I always liked the idea of educating people, too. I remember going for interviews for larger brands and trying to explain this to them, and they thought I meant I wanted to teach, but I think I really just needed a platform to share (not preach) my own values.
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Looking back, it feels kinda funny to say but when I started posting on Instagram, I was trying to be somewhat anonymous and was pretty serious! It wasn’t until lockdown hit and I started sharing my ‘get dressed’ videos on stories because I had a lack of content (I swear this was before TikTok fit checks) that people saw more intimate details… I now know the importance of connecting with people in this personal way, so although I sometimes feel pretty vulnerable sharing my face online, I still do it.
Where did the name come from?
‘HB’ is for my initials, it’s the nickname my sister and friends had for me in my early 20s. I remember when I first started making things for my friends they’d say things like “I’m wearing my HB pants”. I also liked to hand embroider HB at the back with a coloured thread that matched my friend’s personalities.
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As for ‘archive’, I wanted something that would reflect the idea of the project: my personal wardrobe that I’ve loved and worn over the years. Back when I chose it, ‘archive’ wasn’t a word that I’d ever seen connected with garments. I’ve always been very particular with the language I use and was adamant in choosing words that didn’t go hand in hand with fast fashion.
How would you describe HB Archive to someone who’s never seen it before?
…If someone asks what HB Archive is or what I make, I usually just look down and then do a theatrical gesture to the pants, shirt and bag I’m probably wearing. Daytime pyjamas, made for comfort and ease of getting dressed in the morning. I think of it as being a blend of masculine and feminine: pieces that can be worn [in] many different ways and by anyone.
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I focus on natural fibres and am drawn to good structure and shape with my fabrics. Plus all garments are made to order by me, so I can tweak the size, length, and fabric to fit perfectly! I like to think I only create pieces that will be loved for years to come.
What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
That everything I do is as considered as it ever was. From the sizing, colours, fabrics, and fibres to the words, philosophy and personal and business values underlying the project. I’m also incredibly proud of the connections and community that I’ve had the pleasure of building over the years. I definitely don’t take it for granted and pinch myself every day for meeting people with shared morals.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
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I wish I knew there was space for an alternative scale of clothing making. Back when I studied, I think I was pretty naïve to the world. There’s such a community in Melbourne between makers and if I’d had the courage to reach out for a chat I could have known so many great people that much earlier! In saying that, I do remember being just as passionate then as I am now, and I was always researching to know what was happening. I just hadn’t made it to the right place or the right time just yet.
Who do you think is most exciting in the Australian/NZ fashion scene right now?
I think it’s the small labels that are working together, collaborating on pop-up shops, markets, exhibitions, photoshoots, etc. I feel really proud most people in Melbourne are willing to share their resources to collectively make our industry better. Also the cross-pollination between makers, artists, musicians, dancers, etc.
What about the Australian/NZ fashion scene needs to change?
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I think I am fortunate to live in a bit of a bubble when it comes to the overall fashion scene. But something that really shocked me was the amount of tiny businesses that were participating in the Black Friday sales. It kinda drove home that so many industries, including our local clothing scene, are still struggling with the aftermath of the last few years. So many factories, makers, labels and stores haven’t made it and those that are still here are doing what they can to stay afloat.
So I think our local industry is something that we need to continue to nurture, support and rebuild. I’m definitely making sure I continue to support the little guys, whether they chuck on a special or not.
Dream Australian/NZ collaborators?
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Okay, so I’ve had it pretty good so far: I’ve been collaborating with Zoe Baumgartner and Mara for around three years now. I feel incredibly lucky to have them as my friends as well. At the end of 2020, I asked Zoe if she’d want to create a new logo for HB, and she’s since flipped over the website, does all my imagery, and is my go-to for a second opinion.
I really appreciate the honesty we have and how much we encourage [while] at the same time, reminding each other to take a break. Our first collaboration in 2019 was featured in our dream publication, Anyone Girl. Yasmine Ganley, Ophelia Mikkelson, Greta Van Der Star would all be incredible to work with in the future.
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I also feel very lucky to have worked with Kristen Lindesay, who was one-half of Auor eyewear and now works with Island Magazine. Oh, and Aldous Harding would be a dream to dress again too. It was surreal to have her wear my orange suit for her Europe/ NZ/Australian tour in 2019, and her music and videos are a constant source of inspiration. So I guess my short answer would be just about anyone from NZ!
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
Such a great question! In general majority of the pieces I wear are my brand. It’s so important to me to love what I am offering, I like to test wash and wear all the fabrics and items before they may end up on the website.
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As my production set-up lacks a couple of machines used for sewing knits, I like to pair my HB with elevated basics like my Bassike T-shirts and Arnsdorf one-shoulder tanks. I love Rachel Mills for bras, undies, and swimwear, and Vege Threads for all my yoga clothes. I feel very lucky to have traded for a few knits from Anna at Francie, plus a couple of pairs of my mum’s jeans she wore in the ’90s.
Oh and I wear Humphrey Law socks almost exclusively (you can find them on my website) and love my Post Sole shoes. I feel very lucky to be friends with quite a few of the girls who help to clothe me, I know that that 20-year-old me would be in awe of how transparent my wardrobe is.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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You can spy things on my website! My next pre-order will be on February 1, but you can sign up for the newsletter to hear what’s up first. You can also find lots of made-up pieces on the web, and in my lovely stockists (Practice in Brissy, Aflat and Yudu in Adelaide, and Ode Collective in Melbourne).
Anything else to add?
You can write to me at hello@hbarchive.com.au if you have any questions or just wanted to say hi.
For more HB Archive and to purchase one of Holly’s pieces, head here.
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