Deadstock lace sets and one-off bikinis: Meet Melbourne label, XLover
Image via @xlover.studio/instagram
“Fashion isn’t about changing your body.”
Designer and seamstress Chloe Oliver knows how difficult it can be to find clothing that fits properly. The ethos behind her label XLover, was born from this place of personal frustration. “As a woman with a fuller bust, inclusivity is central to everything I create,” Chloe shares.
Immersed in the world of fashion from an early age and largely inspired by her mum, who designed swimwear and activewear in the early 2000s, Chloe draws on ‘90s silhouettes and Y2K nostalgia. Upcycling, working with deadstock fabrics, hosting community events and platforming other local designers are also central to her practice.
For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.
As the sole designer, pattern maker and seamstress behind the label, Chloe has complete authority over her work. This means each stage of the garment creation process can be tweaked as needed, and the end result can be unique time and time again.
Each piece, from multi-functional sets to one-of-a-kind bikinis, can be customised to fit individual measurements. “I know how challenging it can be to find clothing that both fits properly and makes you feel confident.”
View this post on Instagram
Fashion Journal: Hi Chloe! Tell us a little about yourself. What’s your fashion background?
Chloe: I’m a 24-year-old designer and seamstress based in Melbourne. Both of my parents worked in the fashion industry, so it’s always been a part of my life. My mum launched her gym-wear label, Bonehead, when she was 22, and alongside that designed custom stage bikinis for bodybuilders.
Because of this, I was immersed in design from an early age – visiting local manufacturers, and spending a lot of time in haberdashery shops, I have always been surrounded by locally made clothing.
How did XLover begin? Can you walk us through the process and any early challenges?
It all began with a school project where I created an eight-piece collection that ultimately went on to spark my love for sewing, design and creation. I continued studying textiles throughout high school and went on to complete a TAFE course after graduating. During Covid, I launched my first collection just for fun, but it quickly confirmed that this was something I wanted to pursue seriously.
After moving out of home, I relocated to Melbourne, where I began to see my brand slowly grow, learning firsthand that success doesn’t happen overnight. There were many long days spent designing and sewing, and early mornings spent at local markets. After two years of trading at markets across Melbourne, I realised I wanted more – not just for myself, but for my customers too. Working from my home studio no longer felt inspiring enough to sustain my creativity.
When the opportunity arose, I knew I had to take it. I opened my shop in Collingwood and I’ve now been in my studio-store for a year. It’s been one of the best decisions I’ve made for my business, my creativity, and the sense of community that it’s helped me build.
View this post on Instagram
What are you hoping to communicate through XLover? Has this evolved since you first launched?
As a woman with a fuller bust, inclusivity is central to everything I create. I know how challenging it can be to find clothing that fits properly and makes you feel confident. My goal is to foster an inclusive space where curvy women feel valued and can discover pieces that make them feel both sexy and comfortable. That’s why I offer custom designs for all shapes and sizes, ensuring everyone can find something that reflects their individual style.
Since launching my latest collection, orders above an XL have increased by 100 per cent, reinforcing the importance of creating with inclusivity at the front of mind. Showcasing models who truly represent my brand values has been one of the most rewarding aspects of my work. When curvy women can see themselves reflected in my designs and relate to the models wearing them, it creates a genuine connection. Fashion isn’t about changing your body – it’s about expressing your personal style and choosing how you want to feel.
What inspires you most when you’re designing?
A lot of my inspiration comes from my mum, especially photos of her from the ’90s. She had an incredible sense of style and I often find myself wishing I could step into her wardrobe.
Inspiration from the ’70s, ’80s, ’90s and early 2000s all influence my perspective as a designer. I’m also inspired by everyday moments. Often, ideas come to me out of nowhere, and I’ll quickly sketch them in my notebook. I tend to revisit these concepts over time, refining and evolving them until they feel just right.
View this post on Instagram
All your pieces are made by you in Melbourne. What are the benefits and challenges of keeping production local for you?
Every garment is made in-store by me. As a perfectionist who genuinely loves the craft of sewing, it’s something I truly enjoy. It can be challenging at times, keeping up with orders and managing time, but there are also real advantages to being the sole designer and maker.
Because I handle every part of the process, there’s no back-and-forth with manufacturers. I also create all my own patterns, so if something needs adjusting or refining, I can make changes instantly.
You work primarily with deadstock and upcycled fabrics. How do you source these materials?
Sourcing fabric is one of my favourite parts of the process. I feel instantly inspired just by seeing and touching different textiles. Upcycling, in particular, is something I really love. I source most of my upcycled materials from op shops, which allows me to create truly one-of-a-kind pieces.
I also work with a handful of deadstock fabric suppliers across Melbourne and New South Wales. While using deadstock can be challenging due to limited quantities, I see it as a strength – it means each collection is more exclusive and unique.
View this post on Instagram
What are you most proud of so far?
I’m most proud of myself for how far I’ve come over the past year. Starting a business in my twenties and seeing my own growth, as well as the growth of my community, has been incredibly rewarding.
The designer pop-ups that we host every three months are another highlight. I open the shop up to feature the work of other local creatives and it’s always rewarding. Community is everything to me and supporting other designers brings me so much joy. I know firsthand how challenging it can be to break into the fashion industry as a small business.
The collection I’m most proud of is the Ashton Set – a multifunctional two-piece that I absolutely love. It’s now in its third release, which has been really exciting to see.
Can you tell us about the sewing classes you hold at your Collingwood store? How can people get involved?
Hosting sewing lessons has been a dream of mine since high school. I’m a very hands-on learner and that’s something I found challenging in my early years of sewing. The reason I feel so confident now is because I was taught step by step, guided closely by my mum’s seamstresses, learning each technique in a practical, supportive way.
I wanted to create that same experience for others who want to learn the basics without committing to months or years of formal study. Sewing is an art – once it clicks, it really clicks and with practice, you can create whatever you imagine.
I offer a range of classes, from beginner basics to more specialised skills like custom swimwear and pant-making. There’s something for everyone, with both group and private lessons available.
View this post on Instagram
What are your hopes for XLover over the next five years? Where do you see the label heading?
What a question… honestly, I see XLover growing into a space where I’m able to build my own team, bringing together multiple seamstresses and designers in an expanding studio. I want it to be somewhere people come not just to shop, but to have a unique and memorable experience.
I’d love to continue teaching sewing classes, as well as hosting community events. Looking ahead, I even see the potential for international growth – maybe a sister store somewhere in Europe. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see.
Where can people buy your pieces?
XLover Studio is available online, and in-store at 160 – 162 Johnston Street, Collingwood. We’re also stocked at Buzzkill Vintage in Fitzroy.
Find more from XLover Studio here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
