Emerging label Sanctuaire embraces a modern dystopia
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICHOLAS FORMAT AND JAIDA THE CREATOR
as told to daisy henry
“Fashion is one part of a bigger universe we’re building.”
To be an emerging fashion designer today requires a certain level of cynicism. “We have more than enough pre-existing garments in the world to clothe everyone for years to come,” says Jaida the Creator.
Rather than ignoring the realities of overconsumption and environmental degradation, Jaida is facing it head-on. As a multidisciplinary artist, creating a world for her label, Sanctuaire, came before she designed any garment. “We’re story first, aesthetic follows,” she explains. “Our narrative explores a speculative future in which most current societal systems have crumbled, including the fashion industry, politics and economics.”
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This informs much of Jaida’s design process, including the decision to focus primarily on upcycling. Inspired by the process of transformation, many of her designs once started life as something else. “I love that you can take something pre-existing and reimagine it.. the new seams on the old ones.” In the case where pieces are made from scratch, Sanctuaire operates on a made-to-order model to minimise waste.
Of course, running an independent fashion label as a young person isn’t without its challenges. “It’s an interesting path, but when you have other young passionate people around you, it feels less daunting,” she says. Below, Jaida shares more about the sci-fi world she’s building and where her Naarm-based label is headed.
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Fashion Journal: Hi Jaida! Tell me a little bit about yourself. Did you grow up dreaming of working in fashion?
Jaida: I grew up loving books and storytelling and world-building. I self-published a book at around 14 years old, and before that I used to illustrate, write and make my own books. I went on to briefly study creative industries. I started out wanting to shoot music videos, which I did. This led me into photography, which I found I enjoyed more, and then, wanting to create a cohesive visual story, led me to fashion.
Did you study fashion design formally or are you self-taught?
I studied fashion design briefly, and went on to teach myself much of what I know today through trial and error. In terms of getting a foot in the door, a lot of it was years of making, posting and saying yes to lots of things. I’ve been lucky enough to meet people who have guided me and put my name forward for opportunities.
I think sticking to my guns and doing something unique has naturally brought in aligned opportunities, as has building my own platform through social media. We really have the world at our fingertips, you know.
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How did you launch Sanctuaire?
Pre-Sanctuaire, I was operating under a different name (IYKYK). But officially, at the end of 2024 and early 2025, I did the first release. Challenges are always there when you’re building anything – there’s a constant learning curve that you get better at navigating with time.
How would you describe its aesthetic mood to someone discovering it for the first time?
Modern dystopia, industrial paradise, speculative future.
We are writing and building a sci-fi narrative that informs many aspects of the brand, including our colour and fabric choices in design, campaigns and communication. I think a lot of people pick up on this, but we’re story first, aesthetic follows.
You upcycle a lot in your work. What about this practice interests you?
I love that you can take something pre-existing and reimagine it. I saw this heritage building in the city, surrounded by skyscrapers, and it reminded me of the movie Up. It also reminds me of upcycling, the new seams on the old ones.
Transformation is guaranteed in our lives, and upcycling is just a physical manifestation of my own transformation. Of course, on the sustainability side of things, we have more than enough pre-existing garments in the world to clothe everyone for years to come.
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Tell me more about this world you’ve created for Santuaire.
Our narrative explores a speculative future in which most current societal systems have crumbled, including the fashion industry, politics and economics. In its place stands a tech giant that engineered a new technology integrated into former major cities. Beyond these cities, most of the planet is covered in deserts. Weather has reached new extremes, and outside of these new ‘smart cities’ it’s practically unliveable.
Virtua [one of the smart cities] enforces conformity by providing citizens with identical, smart-skin garments that adapt to the weather extremes and regulate body temperature. In response to this, residing in old underground industrial buildings on the outskirts of these cities, a movement, The Weave, forms.
They are finding a new way to live beyond a controlled society by upcycling remnants of the smart garments and spreading the message of their existence through art in hopes of reaching Virtua citizens. We’re constantly building onto this narrative and it informs much of what we do.
Where else do you find inspiration when you’re designing?
Beyond that, I’m inspired by everything around me. I soak up my environment. When I spend a lot of time in nature, it’s earthy palettes and organic textures. Lately I’ve been spending a lot more time exploring cities and industrial areas, and I just notice everything, like the colour and wear of some rust or concrete.
And then people – the current culture, what people are wearing and why and how it reflects times. I’m inspired by people with really authentic, individual style and what we say through how we dress.
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What are you most proud of in your work so far?
Putting on our runway last year independently. I’m so proud of the team and community. And honestly, continuing to show up and have faith even when things have been slow or challenging.
What do you think needs to change in the local fashion industry?
I’m more concerned with the industry on a global scale. It’s an incredibly wasteful and harmful industry, the structures and systems in place are outdated. I can’t offer a solution right now but I believe collectively, we need to move toward a completely different approach. I hope one day I can contribute to that.
Who are your dream collaborators?
From the top of my head: KidSuper, Mowalola and Rick Owens, because they’ve built their own worlds that transcend fashion. Music, painting, furniture, storytelling. It resonates with me a lot.
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What are your hopes for your label over the next five years?
I’m learning to talk less and just put my head down and do what I need to. But what you’ll see over time is that fashion is one part of a bigger universe we’re building.
Anything else you’d like to add?
We’ve just dropped a 2.0 of our first ready-to-wear garment, the Aire Flux Mesh Short, this month.
I’d also like to give a huge shoutout to my team, Vir and Thora, and last year, Max and Basil. Navigating this space as a young creative person is an interesting path, but when you have other young passionate people around you, it feels less daunting.
Keep up with Sanctuaire here.
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