Deep dive: Fashion can’t get enough of tennis right now, so where did it all begin?

The sartorial evolution of tenniscore.

When it comes to style on the court, tennis has always been in a league of its own. From the corseted ensembles of the Victorian era to today’s TikTok-approved tenniscore aesthetic, the sport’s sartorial evolution mirrors a broader cultural fascination with the intersection of fashion, performance and lifestyle.

After all, tennis isn’t just a game. It’s a runway, a status symbol, a pop culture movement and now, at least in Australia, the new social scene for the who’s who. Not only was it fervently popularised earlier this year by Zendaya’s press tour outfits for Challengers, the style associated with the sport has consistently high ratings on TikTok, Depop and high fashion collaborations.

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Modern tenniscore exemplifies the effortlessly classy vibe of sports-luxe, something brands like New Balance understand. Recently unveiling its 2025 Australian Open Collection, New Balance is serving up the high performance looks for summer. Polos, hoodies, skirts and accessories are continuing fashion’s ongoing love affair with the court.

As the official Performance Apparel and Footwear partner of the Australian Open, New Balance is prioritising function just as much as form. It’s pushing the boundaries of sports fashion for a collection that’s begging to be worn both off and on the court, leaning into a colour palette inspired by the Australian outdoors. 

“This year we’re celebrating what tennis means to Australia,” says New Balance Vice President, Darren Tucker. “Whether you’re a professional athlete serving on the court or looking for style, durability and comfort this summer – there’s something for everyone.”

Fashion’s love affair with tennis

Stylist and trend forecaster, Nicole Adolphe, says tennis has had an undeniable influence over the fashion industry, which has accelerated in recent seasons. “Over the last few years, tennis has definitely become a fashionable thing; a social scene that celebrities and fashionable people want to be a part of,” she explains. Increasingly, both high end designers and more accessible high street labels are adopting elements of tennis wear into their collections. 

These elements – from pleated skirts, to miniature lengths, to polo fabrics, to button-up collars – are sprinkled throughout the New Balance collection, which has been designed for performance as much as aesthetics. 

Nicole, whose job is to predict what fashion styles and designs will sell in the Australian market, says the preppy, polished style inspired by tennis fashion has dominated both runways and street style, making its mark on luxury and everyday brands. “We’ve seen tenniscore become a trend since around 2021,” she says, pointing to the ultra-mini pleated skirts and polo tops splashed across international runways in recent years.

Stylist Nicole Bonython-Hines also credits the now-ubiquitous micro skirts as a keystone of the tenniscore trend. “You can now buy those skirts everywhere, from Miu Miu for $1500 or from fast fashion brands for $24,” she says. She notes fashion brands have been quick to adopt other styles from the court and its surrounds too, like Argyle sweaters, collared shirts, mini bomber jackets and track tops.

For those looking for a tennis skirt they can actually play in, New Balance has its own spin on the classic design, with a pleated light weight skort. Available in both a soft, neutral green and bold navy, it’s available to purchase for $100 online and at select New Balance stores. 

Browsing through the Australian Open collection, it feels distinctly modern, wearable and bang on trend. But tennis wear wasn’t always this way. The sport was traditionally aristocratic, minimalist, and very, well, white (in every sense). So how did its uniform manage to transcend its exclusive roots and filter to the everyday? 

History meets modernity

While many think tennis fashion’s roots lie in the late 19th century, when lawn tennis emerged as a genteel pastime for the upper class, RMIT University fashion historian Emily Bradshaw says the sport actually dates back to England’s King Henry VIII, when it was a game enjoyed by the Tudors.

Women played in long skirts, tight corsets and puffed sleeves, while men donned tailored blazers and pleated trousers. White was the uniform of choice, a marker of purity, virtue and wealth, and something only the elite could afford.

“With clothing being extremely expensive to make in that era, if you had ritzy gear, it was a massive flex, right? So this idea of sport, leisure, luxury and fashion has carried through to the 21st century. Because if you can afford to kick back, play a little tennis and look great doing so, then obviously you’ve got money,” Bradshaw says. 

Change arrived in 1887 with 15-year-old Wimbledon champion Charlotte “Lottie” Dod, who dared to ditch corsets and opt for a shorter, school-uniform-esque skirt, scandalising traditionalists but signalling the start of tennis fashion’s move toward practicality.

This was further amplified in the 1920s by French star Suzanne Lenglen, who shocked Wimbledon with her low-cut dresses, rolled-down stockings and flamboyant bandeau headscarves designed by Jean Patou. Lenglen’s daring looks introduced sportswear to the world of high fashion, influencing Parisian daywear and setting the stage for tennis as a style icon. 

Tennis style in Australia

It was also around this time that tennis entered Australia. “We actually have a long history of tennis attire influencing fashion, which started in the ’20s and ’30s, because Australia really took to contemporary modern tennis really early,” Bradshaw says. 

As a result, companies promoted their shoes and products in the 1930s as tennis wear, but also as leisure wear, capitalising on Australia’s passion for the sport. 

This is the second time New Balance has created an apparel range for the Australian Open and it has well and truly got the memo. While each piece is designed for high performance on court, those watching from their seats will be just as impressed, with each style both tennis-ready and fashion-forward. “It’s incredible to be in our second year at the AO and we hope tennis lovers and New Balance fans enjoy our latest collection,” says New Balance’s Darren. 

As breakout Australian stars have emerged over decades, so too has breakout fashion. Players like Evonne Goolagong Cawley, an Indigenous Australian former number one, wore “little green outfits [and outfits] trimmed with embroidery, in stripes, really breaking that mould and showing her star power,” says Bradshaw. Ash Barty, another proud First Nations champion, followed this tradition, wearing bold outfits that reflected her individuality. 

Tennis in Australia was also of a much more egalitarian nature. “Compared to the US and Europe, where tennis was kind of the sport rich people played, in Australia you’d have everybody hitting the ball around,” Bradshaw says. “Because of our outdoor climate and lifestyle, working-class players could rise to stardom.” 

This boom also brought tennis magazines and boutiques to Australia in the ’70s and ’80s. “You’d have dedicated tennis stores and women going to play tennis at lunchtime, ponytails done, dressed to impress,” she adds. 

Those dedicated tennis stores have stuck around, with a series of on-site pop-ups at the Australian Open bringing new energy to the mix. New Balance’s own retail activation outside Rod Laver Arena will feature the entire Australian Open range for everyone to explore, ponytail or not. The immersive space mirrors the brand’s global in-store presence, inviting fans to engage with the energy and buzz of the tournament. 

Tennis fashion through the decades

Globally, French player René Lacoste forever altered the world of fashion and tennis in 1933 by creating the iconic polo shirt after becoming frustrated by restrictive long sleeves. In 2025, the style is still a wardrobe and tennis staple. New Balance’s spin is delivered in three premium styles (two men’s, one women’s), in a breathable polywoven performance fabric for the Australian summer. 

By the 1970s, stars like Björn Borg and John McEnroe infused personality into their on-court looks, sporting headbands, branded polos and bold colours that captured the era’s free-spirited ethos. 

In the ’80s, it was all about fluoro brights and full-body lycra, exemplified by former US player Anne White’s infamous all-white bodysuit at Wimbledon. The decades following saw Serena and Venus Williams and Maria Sharapova push boundaries with bold, couture-inspired designs, from Serena’s black catsuit to Sharapova’s Swarovski-studded lace dresses.

Fast forward to today, and tennis remains a marker of style and substance. While high-end brands are leaning into the trend with literal interpretations, accessible fashion staples like New Balance’s latest AO line prove that tenniscore is here to stay, whether you’re on the court or just dressing the part.

Browse the New Balance 2025 Australian Open collection here.