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New Zealand-based label Willem Worldwide is designing club-ready, modern-day armour

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JONNY LUNG

Words by Gabrielle O’Hagan

“I’ve always wanted my designs and the world I build them in to highlight a presence of otherness. Allowing ourselves to explore an always evolving, always learning, self-journey of identity.”

They say opposites attract, but can they exist together in perfect harmony? If you’ve ever come across New Zealand-based clothing label Willem Worldwide, then you’ll know the answer is unequivocally a ‘yes’. The brand’s founder and designer Willem Horck has created a collection of garments that capture both strength and vulnerability in effortless synergy.

Incredibly, Willem was able to do this with no formal training in the fashion industry. Their love of fashion blossomed through dance; the process of transforming themselves for every performance through hair, makeup and costume was liberating and cultivated their interest in design. They are entirely self-taught as a designer, and they attribute their success to hard work and trial and error.


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Of course, you wouldn’t know this from looking at their designs; their latest collection Daybreak is the picture of refinement. The garments have been designed to reflect our interior realities, celebrating uniqueness and otherness.

Willem wanted the clothes to express our evolving identities, while also acting like a suit of armour to protect us from the outside world. This is a nod to Willem’s own personal journey of growth and self-discovery, but it also serves to empower people to feel fearless and bold when wearing their clothes.

Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background? 

My name is Willem and I grew up in Aotearoa [then] moved to Naarm (Melbourne, Australia) for several years, and am now back in my home city of Otautahi, New Zealand. I think I developed my earliest memories in fashion as a young kid when I trained as a dancer. Some of my earliest memories of self-expression came from choosing my outfits, wearing makeup and performing as another version of myself. This process of ‘becoming’ was a really transformative part of my life.

 

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My first experience of self-expression and creativity was through dance and this served to be a really transformative part of my life. I started gravitating towards that element of dressing up, and soon decided to stop dancing and began to focus on my own fashion designs. Looking back I can now see how I directly captured my curiosity and passion for movement and translated it into my burgeoning fashion practice.

How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges. 

Willem Worldwide was officially birthed when I presented my first collection No Fixed Shape as a part of Proximity, a night that explored states of dance music, performance and fashion. This collection was a reflection of how we perceive the physical state of our bodies in relation to the interior mind.

Prior to this collection, my designs mostly consisted of repurposing found garments from secondhand stores and reconstructing them into what I consider a lethal weapon, a look to slay at the club. I can’t go into too much detail but let’s say there was a lot of metal hardware and maybe even a blow torch involved in the construction of some of the garments…

 

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I did not learn by going to fashion school. I instead had to be patient with myself and learn through the process of trial and error. I think it has made me realise that success does not come overnight and the feeling of instant gratification that we’re all used to due to social media, doesn’t serve you when trying to master a practice.

What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now? 

At the time of starting my brand, I was trying to be as bold as possible with my ideas. I think this is a great way to explore and decide what you want to focus in on. I’ve always wanted my designs and the world I build them in to highlight a presence of otherness. Allowing ourselves to explore an always evolving, always learning, self-journey of identity.

Through filming my latest collection, it felt affirming to connect with other queer artists in my hometown and cast people who embodied the community of the other, the queer, the extravagance, the darkness which I feel so much a part of. This collection Daybreak has a sense of freedom for the wearer, as well as restrictiveness. Acting as protection, I focused on finding a tension between the fabrics used – chiffon demonstrating vulnerability and softness, while leather, suede, and reflective materials show strength, acting like a hardy shield.

How would you describe Willem Worldwide to someone who’s never seen it before? 

I would describe it as modern-day armour for all the city girls out there. To show up wherever looking and feeling divine. Wearing Willem Worldwide will serve whiplash to anyone who doesn’t get it yet.

Where did the name come from? 

The name ‘Willem’ was given to me by my parents. It comes from my mother’s maiden name. It’s an extremely common name in the Netherlands, but super niche on this side of the world. Then ‘worldwide’ because why not think big… worldwide, baby!

 

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What are you most proud of in your work on your label? 

I think I am most proud of my latest collection, as it’s the start of something new. A new chapter for Willem Worldwide. It’s nice to be able to reflect on my personal journey and [the] growth I’ve made. With the release of this collection, I feel like things are just getting started.

What about the Australian/New Zealand fashion industry needs to change?

I think being a part of the fashion industry, we need to be more conscious of the impact we’re placing on the environment. I don’t believe that it will ever be a sustainable industry. I think brands need to stop marketing themselves as ‘sustainable’ and instead need to promote a more thoughtful way of consuming. By creating pieces that will be cherished for a lifetime, and not be seen as disposable. Ideally, we can change the way people consume.

 

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Who is in your wardrobe right now? 

Margiela perforated jeans are an everyday favourite of mine. The samples from my latest collection. The Willem Worldwide hoodie is my go-to and a not yet released pair of vegan leather, suede pants. I am also obsessed with these Martine Rose mules that look like coffins on my feet.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

You can purchase them directly here.

Head here to browse the latest collection from Willem Worldwide.

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