5 fashion industry people on what they hope to see from the next gen of Australian design

“I’m just very excited to see more of the unique, disruptive talent coming up through the country right now.”

Over the last five years, the local fashion industry has embraced emerging designers in a whole new way. With creatives like Emily Watson, Erik Yvon and Alix Higgins (just to name a few) leading the way, commercial opportunities for the next generation of Australian and New Zealand talent have never been so abundant.

Launched back in 1996, the Afterpay Australia Fashion Week (AAFW) Next Gen Runway has been at the forefront of this industry shift for over two decades. Working alongside IMG, the Next Gen 2023 program invites sustainably-minded up-and-coming designers to submit a portfolio to be judged by a panel of experts.

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In return, four chosen winners will make their debut at the AAFW Next Gen show, also receiving sales and mentoring opportunities. Ahead of the applications closing on October 30, we asked five of the esteemed judges to share what they hope to see from the next gen of Australian design.

Isabelle Truman, freelance journalist

I hope to see designers who are starting to really hone in on their sense of brand identity. This will, of course, evolve as they continue to create and respond to the ever-changing world around them, but I think it’s essential to have a point of difference and one that feels really genuine at that.

I want to know the ‘why’ of it, which is more important than ever when it comes to fashion’s impact on the world and I’d love to see designers who are socially conscious and community-minded. Those who are designing for more of a niche market, rather than for mass consumption. And those with extended sizing and inclusivity in mind, too, always. Mainly, I’m just very excited to see more of the unique, disruptive talent coming up through the country right now – it’s such an exciting time for Australian fashion.

@isabelletruman

Bridget Veals, General Manager Womenswear, Footwear and Accessories, David Jones

From the next generation of designers, I would want to see creativity in design – but coming from a commercial perspective as the longevity of the product and designs is key to success.

Sustainability is now a given and seeing new fabrics and technics in this area would be important and demonstrate an awareness of the future responsibility of the fashion industry. [Also] quality over quantity… for me, fashion needs to be both beautiful and functional as we look to invest more in our fashion choices for a long-term, sustainable wardrobe.

@bridgetveals

Natalie Xenita, Vice President-Managing Director, IMG Fashion Events Asia-Pacific

Next Gen is one of my favourite shows on the schedule and I always look forward to seeing the new guard of Australia’s design talent make their debut at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week. IMG’s Next Gen program has long been a launchpad for some of Australia’s most notable designers, including Camilla and Marc, Bec + Bridge and Akira.

Seeing more recent names like Erik Yvon and Aaizel go on to hold standalone shows at AAFW in 2022 was surreal. I hope to see this year’s applicants continue to push the boundaries of sustainable, inclusive and socially conscious fashion. Today, consumers are always looking for brands they can identify with and whose values align with their own – I’m eager to see how our applicants will speak to different customers through their designs.

@nataliexenita

Libby Page, Market Director, Net-a-Porter

The next generation of designers represents so much more than new clothes; they are the lens through which we view the world creatively and critically. In this exciting-yet-challenging industry, I look forward to seeing innovative designs that showcase diversity, sustainability, and quality.

I’m looking for a unique POV, a designer with a distinct DNA you can recognize even through subtlety. There is definitely room in the market for elevated, contemporary clothing that is still very design-led. Emerging luxury non-apparel brands is another area I’d like to see brands emerge into.

@libbyjanepage

Bianca Spender, Founder and Creative Director, Bianca Spender

It’s exciting to see such an emergence of young, dynamic creatives entering the Australian fashion industry, breaking the design mould and enforcing the strength of experimentation. In recent years, we’ve seen a flurry of unseen talent who have showcased their unique perspective on design and have gone on to be recognised for their distinct vision… I’m also intrigued by work that emphasises an inherent focus on sustainably sourced resources and deep consideration of form and inclusivity.

@biancaspender

For more on the AAFW Next Gen 2023 program, head here.