Auckland menswear label Porter James Sports is making elevated basics
IMAGE VIA @PORTERJAMESSPORTS/INSTAGRAM
WORDS BY MAGGIE ZHOU
Capsule wardrobe essentials.
On the sports turf, Joshua Heares was equally concerned about the game at hand and his outfit. In his own words, he always “wanted to be the best-dressed player on the golf course, cricket or rugby field”. As the Auckland-based founder of the label Porter James Sports (PJS), Joshua has always been fascinated with clothes.
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The three-year-old label boasts a selection of casual loungewear, cosy knitwear and refined wardrobe basics. Self-described as a “simple but considered take on the modern male wardrobe,” Porter James Sports is fusing sportswear and menswear. Read on to hear about Joshua’s journey and the inception of PJS.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
I didn’t study or work in fashion until [I] start[ed] my own label three years ago. I actually worked in advertising and design for a decade before one day deciding to start PJS.
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I remember at a young age, probably as early as nine or 10, being obsessed with ‘looking the part’. Typically orientated around sport, I always took so much pride in my appearance and wanted to be the best-dressed player on the golf course, cricket or rugby field. Looking good was as important as playing good.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
Ultimately, I was on a mission to create a life more on my terms. I left my career at about age 29 to start PJS. I saw [it] as a vehicle to express my creativity and work to the conditions I set – for example, designing and wearing the clothes I like [instead of] uniforms or corporate attire. [I got to work] the hours I pleased (albeit a lot more) and collaborat[ed] with the people [who] inspired me, as opposed to my stale marketing clients at the time.
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Without a doubt the thing I’ve found hardest is cash flow. Needing cash for growth is no joke. From customer acquisition to increasing the size of your purchase orders, it’s a real chicken-and-egg scenario – not to mention going months without paying yourself in favour of benefiting the business. Entrepreneurship is a grind, especially in fashion. Fortunately, we are through the other side of a lot of those early challenges, but only just.
How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
Our brand essence is a life well-designed. It [speaks] to my personal narrative but also the timeless nature of the brand. Rationally speaking, I see PJS as the convergence of menswear and sportswear (streetwear). My take on the modern male wardrobe, if you will. In saying this, I’ve also found it’s important not to define your brand too much during the formative years as your views on it all evolve rapidly and adaptability is key.
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Where did the name come from?
My favourite brand of all time is Ralph [Lauren]. So I wanted something traditional that wouldn’t sound out of place next to Ralph Lauren. With that in mind, my middle name is James but I don’t think my imposter syndrome would [have] allowed me to name the brand entirely after myself so I came up with Porter.
I think, if I’m honest, Porter is my alter ego (ha); a considered gentleman with immaculate taste. Plus, Porter James just sounds nice, at least to me anyway. The ‘sports’ component I add in when it suits me. It helped with securing brand IP like domain names and Instagram handles but it also brings a casual tone to the brand which I like.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
Our quality has been there from day one. We are a high street brand with accessible pricing and I’m really proud of that. I’m also proud of our resilience. We’ve been through some dark times but today the brand’s stronger than ever.
What do you wish you had known when you started?
Don’t feel like you have to create a full wardrobe to begin. Focus on key styles and double down on those. You’d also likely have faster success (in the eCommerce world) if you put your effort into regular product drops instead of seasonal collections.
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Who is most exciting in the Australian and New Zealand fashion scene right now?
Focusing on menswear, there are a few brands that are pushing me to be better on a daily basis. It’s cool that a lot of them are my friends too. [From] New Zealand – Spirit and Sin, Youknow, Goodlids, Thom Morison and Checks. [From] Australia – Alfred’s Apartment, Mutimer, Earls Collection, Pyra and Milk Bar.
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What about the Australian and New Zealand fashion scene needs to change?
Generalising here [but] men don’t value fashion like they do in the Northern Hemisphere. They don’t invest in their wardrobe like they do in Europe or Asia. Sadly menswear has to be very price-conscious to do well on this side of the world which is limiting as a creative.
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