How to find your style formula, according to a stylist

“I actually think styling formulas transcend seasons in a way that is really exciting.”

If you’ve spent any time on the internet in the last few years, you’ve absolutely heard about outfit formulas. Whether it’s the ‘wrong shoe theory’, ‘clothes sandwiching’ or ‘big bottom little top’, there seems to be a new version popping up every time I open TikTok. 

Whether it brings up memories of Cher Horowitz’s famous digital wardrobe (ugh, as if), reminds you of those Kath and Kim magnets your grandma had on her fridge back in the day (just me?) or makes you feel like you’re a Barbie playing dress ups each morning, outfit formulas are undoubtedly having a moment. 

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As someone who thinks a lot about the clothes I put on each day, it can get overwhelming when every creator seems to have different rules for how an outfit should work. And because I’m still developing my personal style, it’s hard to know which formulas are going to help and which might hinder. 

In search of an expert opinion, I spoke to Melbourne-based stylist Kirsten Biacsi (or just KB), to find out how she utilises outfit formulas and get her advice on finding the right ones to complement your personal style.

KB tells me she doesn’t necessarily rely solely on one formula when she gets dressed, but uses a range of them to “reinforce a stylistic identity or to challenge it a little”. She thinks of her personal style as an exploration of her identity. “[It’s] a little like a costume. I think about the ‘character’ I want to be that day and then figure out what little tactics can be used to really capture that aesthetic.”

KB says that for her, personal style is “any aesthetic or cultural expression of yourself at any given moment, that sits in your heart right and feels ‘authentic’ to how you see yourself”. She emphasises that while personal style is never set in stone, style formulas can work wherever you are on your style journey.

They can be a really useful framework or scaffold for people who are just starting to experiment, or they can “pose a creative challenge for someone who might have a really strong and consistent permanent style”, KB explains. They can also be a great tool when you’ve got a piece you don’t know how to style.

When it comes to choosing a formula that’s right for you, because there are so many out there, KB says it can be a case of trial and error. “Formulas are pretty much just recipe suggestions on how to get dressed… I don’t think any particular formula is inherently not going to work, but maybe it won’t work for your personal vibe,” she explains.

The good news is that once you’ve found a formula or two you like, KB tells me that it will likely “work across multiple aesthetics”. She tells me that ‘clothes sandwiching’ can work for both a sleek minimalist and a bold maximalist because the formula functions as a guide for our existing wardrobes.

I ask KB if we need to switch up our formulas based on the season, thinking that the same formula couldn’t possibly work for both a Melbourne winter (so many layers) and a summer on the coast. “Not to be dramatic, but I actually think styling formulas transcend seasons in a way that is really exciting,” she says.

Rather than being totally prescriptive, they encourage us to look for new ways to curate outfits from our existing wardrobes, or to style interesting outfits that don’t necessarily fit into a trend perfectly, she explains. “The seasonality doesn’t really factor in here too much and instead, formulas feel like they’re being adopted as new ways to wear what you already have,” she says.

My one concern about outfit formulas is that they have the potential to make every outfit feel quite similar, especially if you follow the same one every day. I present my concern to KB. “Change up the formula!” she says. No rule says you have to use the same one all the time, so shop around.

“Maybe you have one formula you absolutely live for. But when you’re finding all your outfits are ‘big pants and a small top’, for example, challenge yourself with a new formula applied to your same wardrobe,” she explains.

“Formulas promise to systematise your style, but if you’re looking for some experimentation and even, dare I say, a little fun, it’s important to remember it’s really not that serious,” KB says. “Play around with reversing the formula, trying a formula you’d never wear but with clothes you already love.” And ask yourself questions along the way. “Is it the proportion you love? The texture? The layering, the hardware, or the cultural association of a particular piece?” says KB.

What KB is getting at is that outfit formulas are not one size fits all. And despite what the internet makes us think, there are no rules. Take a formula you like and flip it on its head – change it to suit the way you like to dress. The only person who has your style is you, and you can engineer your outfit formulas to reflect just that.

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