When it comes to whimsy, NZFW does it best

A lesson in having fun.

Over the past week, fashion designers from Aotearoa and beyond arrived in Tāmaki Makaurau (Auckland) for New Zealand Fashion Week. As a first-time visitor to the event, it has been an endlessly inspiring lineup of runways, showcasing both established and emerging labels.

Having been on the ground as an international delegate, I’ve been lucky enough to experience some of the best talent in Aotearoa up close. While I’ve always known the country is home to some of the most creative people in the world, NZFW has firmly established that the designers here are well and truly at the forefront.

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If there was one feeling it left me with, it’s to embrace whimsy. Whether through bright colours, coquettish details or unbridled creativity, it’s presented a convincing case for treating fashion as an opportunity to play.

Block colours

Zambesi (left), Penny Sage (right).

A defining theme that emerged from NZFW runways was high-impact colour. The Studio showcase was a case in point, with Rhoda Nunn serving up turquoise, green and chartreuse across mid-length skirts and its signature asymmetrical bikini T-shirts. The effect was pure noughties surf culture, with a distinctly Roxy-inspired feel.

Penny Sage also leant hard into colour, pairing contrasting greens with rich splashes of pink, purple and yellow, while Claudia Li’s offsite show, A Love Letter to New York, took a romantic approach, with oversized draping and asymmetrical necklines in bubblegum pink and lilac.

On the Kāhui Collective runway, Daina Hughes’ bright red trousers stood in contrast to an otherwise soft, floaty collection, while Zambesi’s Song to the Siren took inspiration from its seaside surroundings. Turquoise, deep blue, chartreuse, gold and this season’s obsession, Aquamarine, recalled everything from ocean to sand.

For those of us in the Southern Hemisphere counting down the days to summer, it’s a strong case for embracing bright, eye-catching, dopamine-inducing statement pieces.

Ra-ra-ruffles

Oosterom (left), Emma Jing (right).

Equally whimsical were the number of labels that turned to feminine texture for an additional later of depth. Auckland-based designer Emma Jing made her debut at The Studio,channelling nautical themes (and pirate-style eye patches) in her collection, Local Hero. Here, her signature bubbles, ripples and pleats carried through, creating a playfully exaggerated tone. Oosterom’s Cloud Watching built on this, with silk ruffles, purple ruching, handmade lace and silk organza.

On the neck

Twenty-Seven Names.

NZFW was also proof that the neck is undervalued real estate. Whether it was with a ruffled collar, silk scarf, lazily draped sweater or an oversized bow, Wellington-based label Twenty-Seven Names honed in on the décolletage.

In equal measure, graduate designer Winnie Catherine, who won the Future of Fashion award, embraced exaggerated, statement collars and unexpected necklines.

Flimsy footwear

Ahuru (left), Harris Tapper (right).

Practical or not, footwear is another chance to dial up the whimsy. At The Studio showcase, Harris Tapper offset its sleek outerwear and sheer dresses with playful furry black heels, while Āhuru’s signature homespun wool was poking out from its boots and heels.

Claudia Li treated footwear as its own moment, adorning shoes with coquettish silk bows, green fabric flowers and sea-foam feathers. At the other end of the spectrum, Zambesi kept it stripped back, opting for thongs with a modest heel.

The extra mile

Matu (left), Yuma Taru (right).

Craftsmanship was ever-present throughout the NZFW runways, proving that fashion can be and both an act of labour and love. It’s the kind of clothing that rewards those who look closely.

Fringes designer Finn Mora-Hill used over 7,000 buttons for his collection, At Odds, while Iti reimagined traditional shirting with hand-woven details. Taiwanese Aboriginal artist Yuma Taru’s collection displayed the traditional weaving techniques of the Atayal people, and Matu blended lace, embroidery and patchwork.

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