Yapa Mali is the Nyngan-based label fusing traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAN CASTANO
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“Everything I do will always revolve around the beauty and importance of my culture.”
Two years ago, multidisciplinary artist Maddy Hodgetts decided to move from the Central Coast of New South Wales to Nyngan Country. As a Wangaaypuwan/Ngiyampaa and Wiradjuri woman, she wanted to reconnect with her homeland while immersing herself in creative practices like weaving, art, song, dance and language.
She began making traditional adornments for dancing and performance. “But I’ve always had a love for fashion and dressing differently,” Maddy says. “I think that’s the artist in me!” In 2023, her womenswear label, Yapa Mali, was born.
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The Kirralaapuwan Collection debuted at the 2024 PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival Emerging Mob in Fashion x Fujitsu Runway. The pieces are contemporary, everyday basics like a tailored blazer, A-line dress and fitted midi skirt, made from linen and printed with original artwork.
“The Kirralaapuwan Collection tells a special Ngurrumpaa (homelands) story from my Country of the fallen stars, teaching us about greed and sharing,” she explains. Below, Maddy tells the story of the label so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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I’m a Wangaaypuwan/Ngiyampaa and Wiradjuri woman currently living in Nyngan, New South Wales, which is in Central Western New South Wales (about seven hours from Sydney). I grew up on the Central Coast but I made the decision to move on to Country two years ago.
It was super important for me to start practising my culture on my traditional homelands while delivering cultural workshops and programs across local communities. I’m a multidisciplinary artist [and practice] many aspects of my culture, such as art, weaving, dance/song, adornments and language.
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My fashion background is mainly based on culture, which started off with creating traditional adornment pieces many years ago. These pieces were worn mainly for cultural purposes, such as dancing. But I’ve always had a love for fashion and dressing differently, I think that’s the artist in me!
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
… [With] my history of artwork and adornment making, I wanted to combine the two through fashion. So printing my artwork on fabric was the perfect idea… while using my adornment pieces to showcase looks that represented my Country and culture.
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I released my first collection last year, which was a huge learning experience. There were many challenges and expenses that I didn’t plan for, so everything took much longer than expected.
Luckily I was working with The Social Studio to create all my samples, so they guided and helped me through a lot of the processes. I also didn’t have much of a budget, so we slowly developed each garment every month or so! And just in time, I was able to debut my collection on the Country to Couture runway in Darwin [in] 2023.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
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Everything I do will always revolve around the beauty and importance of my culture, so I wanted to continue sharing and showcasing this through the brand. Another big one [is] sharing very important cultural values, like sustainability! There’s really no point in creating a cultural fashion brand that’s going to hurt Country and create further waste.
This is completely the opposite of our culture – everything we learn is about caring for Country. So it was really important that I choose more sustainable options [and] this included using a more eco-friendly fabric, designing high quality and timeless garments that could be worn over and over again, etc.
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Being able to communicate this to wearers is one of the biggest goals, as well as sharing cultural morals and lessons from the stories of the artwork. For example, the Kirralamaapuwan Collection tells a special Ngurrumpaa (homelands) story from my Country of the fallen stars, teaching us about greed and sharing.
I also want to bring awareness to this special place as currently there is a lot of mining in the area, which hurts Country but also makes it hard for us to visit this sacred place.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
Very timeless and everyday wear garments, [and] the artwork is the main focus! Lots of earthy tones that match colours of Country, [with] more muted tones coming in the new collection that match the night sky. Also, Blak owned and designed!
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
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I’m most proud of all the traditional cultural styles and practices that [are] reflected through my work. For me, this is my ancestors shining through… knowing they’re still there supporting me is very special. And seeing mob in my designs! I do this for my community so they can feel proud wearing their culture.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
Mainly just the whole process behind producing/preparing a garment for manufacturing. After I designed each piece, there was a whole process of patternmaking, fabric samples, sample-making, grading, etc. The list and expenses go on, and there’s a lot of back and forth in editing each sample or colour-matching the artwork. But this second time around, I was a lot more prepared.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
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I think… more Blak designers getting involved and showcasing their designs is deadly! We all have so much to offer… [like] different styles and methods. Seeing our mob being celebrated in any art form is a win for us all!
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
I think the whole concept of in-trend pieces. Normalise wearing an outfit over and over again – it’s time to be more sustainable like our ancestors. There are really so many other options to dress differently or be creative that don’t impact Country.
Dream Australian collaborators?
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I actually don’t know. It’s been quite relaxing working on my own and having free creative control over the collection. I often consult with my Elders and family to discuss sharing these stories, so there’s always that cultural collaboration happening.
I am open to any collaborations with other brands, [but] it would have to be a brand that aligns with my cultural values and can respectfully share the stories of my artwork/designs. It’s a very sensitive process for mob to share stories that reflect thousands of years of culture. It needs to be treated with respect and full control [should be] given to Blak artists or community.
Go-to dinner party playlist?
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Bit of everything – old school RnB, country, etc. But I always love a bit of Barkaa or Thelma Plum.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
To be honest, I’m currently living in baggy tees and shorts. It’s super hot out west in the Country! So I usually opt for brands like Clothing the Gaps or any of the Billabong collabs with Otis Hope Carey and King Stingray!
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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I currently have a few pieces available via the Yapa Mali website.
Browse the Yapa Mali collection here.
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