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Everything I did to repair my nails after giving up gel enhancements

image via @anniskamara/instagram

words by lara daly

Back to basics.

Anyone who knows me knows I always have my nails done. Whether they’re short and round, long and French-tipped, painted clean girl pink or a garish purple, my idea of being ‘well-groomed’ involved gel enhancements.

But recently, I got the ick. I hadn’t seen my natural nails in about five years. All I could think about was the decimated state of my nail barrier lurking beneath layers of builder gel. It was time to take a break.


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When I really thought about it, going to the salon every month to have my nails filed down and thrust under a UV light wasn’t enjoyable anymore. As much as I love to see a fresh set of nail art on an Inner North baddie, personally I was done.

It helped to see my shifting sentiment reflected in the fashion world lately. From Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein to Proenza Schouler, natural nails were everywhere at Fashion Month. The biggest manicure trend right now is about health, not adornment.

“Nails don’t ‘breathe’ but are made up of a similar keratin to hair,” explains Victoria Houllis, a Sydney-based nail artist who runs Mannequin Hands. “So in the same way that bleaching over the same strands causes damage, over-filing the nail will cause damage.”

Unfortunately, there’s no avoiding the next phase. I’ve been riding out a long, ugly journey to get my paper-thin nails back to a place of health. As someone who is nearly out the other end, here’s everything I’ve done to help speed up the process.

Cuticle oil

Facing structural damage, my bare nails needed constant nourishment. I was advised to use a cuticle oil, preferably one made with jojoba or almond oil, not mineral oils which can be drying. I used one by Cuti, which comes in a large dropper bottle with a refillable pen applicator. I keep one by my bedside, my desk, even in the car.

Cut them short

Like netball-court short. Trust me, any length extending beyond your actual finger is going to rip and cause more damage because the nail is so compromised. My nails go pretty fast, so this means filing them back (in one direction, no see-sawing) every week until the damage fully grows out – about two to three months.

Buff, buff, buff

To help get rid of the unsightly ridges, I bought an old-school nail buffer for $5 from Chemist Warehouse. For such a basic technology, I was impressed at how quickly this smoothed and buffed my nails to a seashell shine.

Wear gloves

Without the protection of acrylics or gels, you’ve got to be extra careful around hot water. Simple tasks like doing the dishes or wiping down the sink can cause damage, so use proper dish gloves (or tell someone else in your household to clean). Same goes with opening cans of Diet Coke. As Victoria warns, “Don’t use your nails as tools!”

Resist temptation

 

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The first two weeks were the hardest. I was tempted to run back to the salon and abort this whole mission. What helped me push through? Marc Jacobs FW26. Looking at fashion models with unmanicured hands reminded me this was indeed a chic decision. Embrace having-a-life-core and get into gardening or ceramics.

Eat nutrient-rich foods

I know we’re in the midst of a collagen gummy boom but personally, I don’t buy into it. What I can attest to is a weekly can of sardines for a natural source of calcium, biotin and omega-3s. Also delicious on a cracker with lemon and pepper.

Consider a strengthening treatment

Unbeknownst to me, there’s a whole world of technology out there akin to K18 for your nails. “If you’ve gone natural after wearing enhancements it’s worth using a strengthening treatment like IBX,” Victoria tells me. Most good nail salons now offer IBX treatments, which work by fusing nail layers together to fix damage, and prevent peeling or splitting. I didn’t do this but it’s a good idea if you’re wanting to speed up the process.

Try a ‘Dazzle Dry’

Four weeks in, my nails were halfway grown out and in much better shape. I wanted to treat myself. After speaking to Chelsea Bagan, founder of Trophy Wife, she convinced me to try a ‘Dazzle Dry’ manicure. “This is the new gen offer of normal nail polish,” she explains. “No LED lights, can be removed easily at home with nail polish remover but still offers a much longer wear than traditional nail polish.”

I visited the beautiful salon inside Mecca Bourke Street for the full Dazzle Dry treatment. My nail tech started with the Transform Ridge Filler, which smooths out irregular texture and peeling like magic. Then I chose a deep wine red polish. Unlike normal nail colour, each coat dries very quickly, so you’re not sitting with your hands in front of a desk fan for 30 mins like its 1989.

The result was ultra-glossy and smooth, it fully looked like I had a gel manicure. I got two tiny chips in the following days but it’s stayed looking great for 10 days already. The service at Trophy Wife costs $75 or if you like to do your nails at home, you can order the Dazzle Dry kits online.

For more nail health tips, try this

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