Is pollen silently destroying my skin barrier?

Sniffles, sneezes and stinging skin.

Winter gets a bad rap when it comes to compromising our skin barrier, and frankly, that’s for good reason. Dryness and dehydration from the cold air can make it feel like we’ve shrivelled into sultanas, and spring’s arrival generally marks the start of a more skin-friendly season. But not for everyone.

Our Content and Production Coordinator, Jillian Arcenas, doesn’t suffer from springtime’s standard sneezing and sniffling. Instead, pollen hits her skin barrier – hard. “I felt a stinging sensation on my face and was confused because I hadn’t introduced any new makeup or skincare,” she tells me. “The burning feeling intensified as the day went by and because the season was changing, I suspected pollen might be the culprit.”

For more perspectives on wellness, head on over to our Health section.

Brisbane-based dermatologist and founder of Skin Partners, Dr Leona Yip says this type of seasonal reaction is actually common, particularly for those with eczema or sensitive skin. Below, she explains why pollen can irritate more than just our noses, how to prevent seasonal skin barrier damage and what to do if you’ve been affected this spring.

Fashion Journal: Hi Dr Leona! Can you give us a refresher on what the skin barrier does?

Dr Leona: Think of your skin barrier as your body’s first line of defence against the outside world. It’s the outermost layer of our skin that I often describe as a brick wall – the skin cells are the bricks and the natural lipids and proteins are the mortar holding everything together to create an intact skin barrier.

Its job is to keep moisture in and irritants, allergens and harmful microorganisms out. When that barrier functions well, our skin stays hydrated, healthy and resilient. When it’s disrupted, we lose more moisture through the skin. Things that wouldn’t normally bother us, including skincare products we’ve used for years, can suddenly cause stinging, redness and irritation.

What changes might we notice in our skin barrier come springtime?

Spring brings warmer temperatures, more sunshine, rising pollen levels and often more time spent outdoors. All of these can affect our skin in different ways. For some people, warmer weather and increased sweating can mean oilier skin, breakouts or irritation, particularly if they’re acne-prone. Others may notice their eczema or sensitive skin becoming more reactive in exposed areas like the face, neck and chest, especially during periods of high pollen exposure.

We’re also transitioning from the cooler, often drier winter months. Some people may still have residual skin dryness, while others find that the heavier moisturisers they needed during winter no longer suit their skin and need to switch to a lighter moisturiser. And of course, more outdoor activity means increased UV exposure, which we need to be mindful of in Australia all year round, not just in summer.

Why does spring pollen sometimes irritate or compromise the skin barrier? And who is most susceptible?

Pollen is best known for causing hay fever, but it can also contribute to skin reactivity in susceptible people, particularly those with eczema. Our skin barrier normally helps prevent environmental allergens from interacting with the immune system. But in people with eczema, that barrier is already less effective, allowing allergens and irritants to interact more readily with the skin and potentially trigger inflammation.

Research also suggests that certain pollen allergens and pollen-associated enzymes may contribute to inflammatory responses in the skin. However, it’s important to distinguish this from the idea that pollen directly damages everyone’s skin barrier. That’s not what the evidence shows.

People with eczema, particularly those who also suffer from hay fever or other environmental allergies, are more susceptible. And sometimes, it’s not just the pollen itself. Repeatedly rubbing itchy eyes, blowing your nose or wiping your face during hay fever season can add friction and irritation, particularly around the eyes and nose.

During peak pollen season, what can we do to reduce the effects on our skin?

My advice is to keep your skincare routine simple and focus on maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Start with a gentle, soap-free cleanser and a moisturiser to maintain hydration and support the skin barrier. If your skin is becoming more sensitive, this probably isn’t the best time to introduce several new active ingredients (like retinoids and AHAs) or increase your exfoliation. Doing less is genuinely better for your skin!

If you’re particularly sensitive to pollen, it can help to monitor pollen forecasts, minimise exposure on high-pollen days and shower after spending extended periods outdoors. Washing your hair and changing your clothes can also help remove pollen you’ve brought indoors.

If you have hay fever, managing that properly is important too. Constantly rubbing your eyes and nose certainly doesn’t help irritated skin. And if you have eczema, don’t rely on moisturiser alone to treat an active flare. You may need appropriate prescription treatments prescribed by your doctor.

Post-pollen season, how can we recover?

Good news: our skin barrier constantly renews itself and can recover when irritation and inflammation are brought under control. Stick to a simple skincare routine of gentle cleansing, regular moisturising and temporarily reducing potentially irritating skincare ingredients until the skin feels comfortable again.

Look for moisturisers with barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, glycerine, urea, niacinamide, panthenol and paraffin. These help reduce moisture loss and support the skin’s natural repair process. Remember that persistent redness, itching or scaling may be eczema or contact dermatitis rather than simply a ‘damaged skin barrier’. These conditions sometimes require medical treatment, not another skincare product!

In general, how concerned should we be about our skin barrier?

I think the term ‘damaged skin barrier’ has become a bit of a catch-all explanation for every skin concern on social media. Not every breakout, episode of redness or patch of dry skin means your skin barrier is damaged. Not everyone needs a complicated collection of barrier-repair products. Our skin is actually very good at looking after itself when we give it the right conditions.

My advice is to understand what your skin needs, be mindful of seasonal changes and resist the temptation to constantly change your skincare products because sometimes the most effective skincare routine is also the least exciting one. Gentle cleansing, a good moisturiser and daily sun protection. UV radiation damages the skin barrier, so protect yourself with clothing, shade and sunscreen.

For more on caring for your skin barrier, try this.