Made in Brisbane, designed for the heat: Meet Obelia’s the Label
IMAGE VIA @OBELIAS_THELABEL/INSTAGRAM
AS TOLD TO MARYEL SOUSA
Prioritising natural fibres and easy silhouettes, Obelia’s is made for summer dressing.
As a teenager, Julia Buck once spent three days in a factory sewing the same dress over and over again. The experience opened her eyes to the realities of bulk manufacturing, and five years later, the 22-year-old designer and founder of Obelia’s the Label is doing things a bit differently.
With pieces designed, cut, and sewn in materials chosen for Brisbane’s subtropical climate, Obelia’s is the definition of ‘homegrown’. And it’s easy to see why the label is becoming a local favourite. While its garments feature unusual silhouettes (think billowing pants and hoodies straight out of a storybook), each one is also feminine, easy-going and wearable.
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That level of accessibility is by design, says Julia, who intends her pieces to be worn on repeat. “The clothes don’t ask much of the wearer,” she explains. “They fit pretty easily into your wardrobe and there are no prerequisites for wearing them. I think there’s something quite simple yet special about them.”
Not long after its conception, Obelia’s is now stocked by the likes of Array Store in Brisbane and Solari Studio in Melbourne. Over the next few years (and with the help of her devoted customer base), Julia hopes to conquer more of the Australian fashion scene. Meanwhile, we’ll be eagerly waiting to see what she does next.
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Fashion Journal: Hi Julia, tell us about yourself. What’s your background in fashion?
Julia: I’m a 22-year-old Brisbane baby. I’ve always been obsessed with making things with my hands. Growing up, I played around with crochet, knitting and embroidery until my mum deemed me old enough for my first machine-sewing lesson. I left high school to study fashion at TAFE and got a job as a sewing machinist at a Brisbane factory.
At 17, I spent three days a week sewing the same dresses over and over again, which was incredibly boring but really opened my eyes to bulk manufacturing. I also had another industry job as a production assistant for a local brand, and I’m so lucky to have learned on the job and made connections so early on.
How did Obelia’s begin?
My label began in 2020 during lockdown. I was in Year 11 and had absolutely no intention of doing online schooling, so I spent an extended holiday sewing instead. I had just done a lingerie sewing course on a weekend, and started designing and pattern drafting my own bras. I made a few for my friends, then started an Instagram account to sell them.
My side hustle went on the back burner while I was at TAFE, but I always told myself I’d go back to it. In March of 2024, I relaunched on Instagram, this time with a website and ready-to-ship pieces. I did monthly Saturday markets at Lil J’s in Paddington and got picked up by Array Store in Brisbane and Solari Studio in Melbourne. By November 2024, I decided to take the plunge and go full-time.
I’m proud of myself for being so brave back in high school and putting myself out there. Sharing my art feels very vulnerable and pretty nerve-racking. I don’t know if I’d have had the guts to start from scratch now if I hadn’t taken that first step when I was 15.
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What are you hoping to communicate through the brand?
The brand was really born out of my love for sewing and pattern drafting; I’d never thought of myself as a designer or even a very creative person. Because of that, I found safety in making lingerie and loungewear, since these items matter more for how they’re made, how they fit and how they feel first, rather than whether they suit someone’s style.
It was only after I launched the baby button top, which I initially intended to be a pyjama set, and a lot of girls wore it out of the house, that I got a little kick of confidence in myself for making clothing. I feel like I’ve gotten into my stride with the brand’s identity now, and I’m making pieces that feel more and more like myself.
How would you describe the label’s aesthetic?
For the first year of building the brand full-time, I worked from home on my own. Because of this, I never had to articulate myself to anyone. I’d have conversations on nights out where people would ask me what I do. I’d say, “I make clothes.” The next question would be, “What kind of clothes?” I’d be completely stumped.
I’ve come to describe it as cool, feminine and easy-going. The clothes don’t ask much of the wearer. They fit pretty easily into your wardrobe and there are no prerequisites for wearing them. I think there’s something quite simple yet special about the pieces.
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What inspires you most when you’re designing?
I’m really just designing my own wardrobe. I want to make clothes that get worn over and over again because that’s the whole point. I often look to my friends and the women in my family for inspiration. I’m somewhat limited by what I can make with my resources and Brisbane’s local manufacturing, but I find these limitations really help guide me. Designing seasonally works well for me, as it sets the tone for each collection and helps me stay focused on the finish line.
What kinds of materials do you most love working with and why?
Brisbane’s climate leaves little choice but to use natural fibres. I love cottons and linens and have recently enjoyed using cellulose fabrics like Tencel and bamboo. Some of my favourite fabric wholesalers are dead-stock specialists, which I also find really exciting. There’s something so cool about making something once and then being forced to figure something else out next.
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Can you tell me a little about your supply chain, from design to production?
I design all the garments myself from my West End studio. I like to sketch and once I have an idea semi-worked out, I’ll do a third scale pattern drafting plan, then cut and sew the first sample. I’ll try the sample on as I go and keep tweaking until I’ve got a pattern I’m happy with.
Once I’ve cleaned up the paper patterns, I digitise them with StyleCAD and check that all the seams and notches match perfectly on the computer. I then grade the pattern to all the sizes. As a precaution, I print a different size for the production sample and do my best to sew this one perfectly, as it’s what will be followed for bulk.
Then I make a tech pack and order fabric and trims based on how many garments I intend to make. I get everything delivered to the studio so I can check it before packing up my car and driving down to one of my local manufacturers for cutting and sewing. I love how hands-on I get to be in the process. It also makes me adaptable, since I get to problem-solve in person during production.
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How does your sizing work?
I do XS-XL for garments with stretch that are more forgiving in fit, and 6 to 16 for more structured, fitted pieces. I have been adjusting my fit a little over the past two years based on customer feedback. I think it’s now true to size.
What are you most proud of so far?
It’s been nearly a year since I opened my shop and I’m still pinching myself. I think I’ve carved out a really special space and am surrounded by the loveliest community. The reactions from the customers when they try on pieces are so motivating for me. I’m just making clothes but it’s a great feeling to help make someone feel good in their skin.
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Where do you see Obelia’s over the next five years?
I’m so proud of how far it’s come and feel like I’m building solid foundations in Australia, specifically Brisbane. Growing and maintaining those close customer relationships is so important for me. I’d love to do this through more events and by getting involved in the local fashion scene, possibly a Melbourne pop-up one day.
Check out Obelia’s here.
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