City Guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Bangkok
Photography and words by Constance McDonald
Vintage markets, coconut milk pancakes, spontaneous lip tattoos.
Here at Fashion Journal, we want to unearth the hidden spots in cities that only the locals (or seasoned travellers) know about. There’s no gatekeeping here – this is a breakdown of the underrated date spots, treasure trove op shops and the most awe-inspiring places people will always want to go back to.
Earlier this year, writer and photographer Constance McDonald visited Bangkok for a brief yet memorable jaunt with her friend, fashion designer Catherine Boddy. If you’ve read any of Constance’s travel guides before, you’ll know she puts in the legwork to find the best secret spots.
Have a trip or move coming up? Head to our city guide to find the best spots.
An expert on spontaneous living and travelling on a dime, we wanted to know exactly what she got up to in Thailand’s chaotic capital. When her dispatch arrived (written on a 12-hour train ride to a vintage warehouse), we weren’t disappointed. From hotels seemingly unchanged since the ’70s to local DJ nights, independent designer stores and seven-dollar-an-hour massages inside a secret temple, Constance’s itinerary is full of places you won’t necessarily find in a guidebook.
Have a trip or move coming up? Head to our city guide to find the best spots.
“Bangkok is a city of glinting temple spires next to concrete shophouses, of quiet sois running off main roads. It’s a city you cannot get to the bottom of, but it’s so fun to try! ” she says. Now that we’ve entered the city’s cooler, drier season (the best time to visit Bangkok is November to February), we’re ready to book the flights.
Where to stay in Bangkok
Easy Monday
How low maintenance are you? Could we travel together? How does a bucket shower sound? Easy Monday is a clean, super central option, right by Khaosan Road, with capsule-style sleeping arrangements. Grab yourself a couple of cold cans of Tiger beer from 7-Eleven, pay $10 for the night and hang out by the pool. Yup, a pool!
14 Trok Rong Mai, Chana Songkhram, Phra Nakhon District.
Nakornping Hotel
For a dusty hotel unchanged since the 1970s, this is your spot. A warning: the reviews are terrible, citing dated decor (perfect!), inattentive staff (all good, do your thing, girls), hallways impregnated with cigarette smoke, and weak shower pressure. If all that doesn’t scare you, book!
I shot here for Souvenir, a publication Catherine and I made together, and a few weeks later our model brought a fashion brand here to shoot a campaign, so I must have picked a good one. It’s $20 a night for a double room with an ensuite, and it’s located in the walkable, cool and connected Phra Nakhon district.
9 Soi Samsen 6, Bang Khun Phrom, Phra Nakhon
Where to shop in Bangkok
Loft Eyes
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If you want to shop, start in Siam at Loft Eyes. They stock independent designers including CICLO, and the racks feel fresh and surprising.
240/5 (Mitr Building), Siam Square Soi 2, Pathum Wan
Blulagoon
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Then walk to Blulagoon, a small store mixing new designers with vintage pieces (think Hysteric Glamour, Dolce and Gabbana, etc).
2nd Floor, Siam Square Soi 2, Pathum Wan
Daddy and the Muscle Academy
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Nearby, Daddy and the Muscle Academy is worth popping into for a Harajuku-esque atmosphere.
422/5 Siam Square Soi 2, Pathum Wan
Song Por Look Shoe Repair
Need your shoes repaired? Song Por Look Shoe Repair put new heel caps on Catherine’s Phoebe Philos.
182 Bangkok 10200, or copy and paste this into Google Maps: ร้านซ่อมรองเท้าสองพ่อลูก
Tokyo Plaza Samut Prakan
Tokyo Plaza Samut Prakan is a good bit out of the city, accessible by a well-air-conditioned train. The journey is worth it; it’s a huge warehouse-style market full of secondhand goods imported from Japan. I found a Blumarine zip-up hoodie and a Chacott leotard for 30 baht each. Catherine scored deadstock tights and socks for 10 baht. Also on offer: old Japanese fashion magazines for 5 baht, cassettes and thousands of shoes (many made in Italy in the 1970s). We spent a couple of hours there enjoying the dig.
10 ต 5 ถ.พุทธรักษา Tambon Thai Ban Mai, อำเภอเมือง, Samut Prakan, Thailand
Where to get a drink
Mandarin Oriental Bangkok
Sit for a drink at the Authors’ Lounge in the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. (Or just sit… they let me hang out here with my notebook for a couple of hours). This is where Barbara Cartland once stayed, and where a lot of The White Lotus was written. High ceilings, wicker chairs and branded matchboxes.
48 Oriental Avenue, Bang Rak
Culture Café
If you want to dive headfirst into the local vinyl scene, you’ll love it here. They keep their Facebook page updated with events, detailing what ‘nights’ are going on, so you can give the DJs a quick Google (and I know there is no chic way to Shazam, but I did it anyway). Do not try to order anything elaborate at the bar – it’s a time for a vodka and tonic, or whatever beer they want to serve you.
13 Charoen Krung Road, Wang Burapha Phirom
Where to eat in Bangkok
Kway Teow Roo
For a fish ball noodle breakfast, go to Kway Teow Roo. A big bowl costs 60 baht (around $2.60 AUD at the time of writing). It opens at 7am. I went three times.
Near 970/1 Pak Charoen Krung Roadd, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong
Jay Moo Saphan Han Fruit Smoothie
Best smoothie. I got mango and passionfruit (50 baht), perfectly and carefully made by three aunties.
570 Chakkraphet Rd, Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon
Nai Ek Roll Noodle
In Chinatown, you can’t go wrong ordering crispy pork and rolled noodles from Nai Ek Roll Noodle (70 baht).
442 Yaowarat Soi 9, Samphanthawong
Tamrapthai Kanom Krok Talat Noi
For Thai coconut milk pancakes (kanom krok), go to Tamrapthai Kanom Krok Talat Noi. They are dreamy! I got 10 mini pancakes for 50 baht (around $2 AUD). To find it, look for the street stall at the roundabout near the entrance to the Marine Department (กรมเจ้าท่า) in Talat Noi.
Soi Wanit 2, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong
What to do in Bangkok
Roam around the night markets
Visit the night market at Dan Neramit Castle, enjoy dank mango salad and a pretty backdrop – the old Dan Neramit theme park site.
1408 Phahonyothin Road, Chom Phon, Chatuchak
Browse book and record stores
For a record shop that appears unchanged since the 1980s, visit Cathe Record Ltd., Part. It’s full of old Thai vinyl and would make a special gift to bring back for your dad.
223 231 ถ. เจริญกรุง Ban Bat, Pom Prap Sattru Phai
If you want somewhere quiet to browse fashion and art books and magazines, get a day pass (100 baht) to TCDC Bangkok Creative Design Centre. They have good WiFi and spaces to work if you need some Laptop Time to answer emails or book trains.
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1160 Charoenkrung Road (Grand Postal Building), Bang Rak
Enjoy some pampering
Catherine got her lips blushed and beauty spots tattooed at Diveyroom Tattoo Studio.
268 ซอยตลาดบ้านสมเด็จ, Somdet Chao Phraya, Khlong San
For compliment-me nails, go to Kantima Salon on the second floor of Daddy and the Muscle Academy.
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Siam Square Soi 2
For a 150-baht, one-hour massage, go to Baiyoke Riverside Massage. It has a painted ceiling and is snuggled inside a temple.
25/2010 ถ. เจริญกรุง Wat Phraya Krai, Bang Kho Laem
Buy a local SIM card
I know, I know. Nitty-gritty! Everyone will try to sell you a tourist SIM. They are quadruple the price. Don’t do it, girl. Resist! Get a ‘local SIM’ with unlimited data from 7-Eleven for 350 baht for a month.
One last thing
If you’re like me, the type who reads a city through its signage, keep an eye out for the font Curlz MT. I always take it as a good omen. Spot it on a shopfront or hotel sign, and you’re probably about to find somewhere worth stopping.
For more on Bangkok fashion, try this.
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