A writer’s guide to Biarritz, the French answer to Byron Bay
photography and Words by Genevieve Phelan
Bask in the Basque beauty.
Should you be on the hunt for somewhere slightly left of field for your next European jaunt, may I point you in the direction of Biarritz. Looking out onto sheets of blue with rip-roaring waves, green shrubbery and rugged cliff-scapes exudes a strangely comforting sense of home for any Australian.
However, divert your eyes to the town centre and some grandiose Basque architecture reorients you right back in the southwest of France.
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Someone coined Biarritz the ‘Byron of France’ and that couldn’t feel more apt. As a girl desperately trying to relearn French and easily wooed by Spanish-influenced menus, I became enamoured by Biarritz within one short lap around the block.
The surf culture is truly embedded in everything here, from the shops to the street style (everyone is salt-drenched and exudes great taste). But I warn you: there are no ‘calm’ beaches here. You’re going to be frolicking around and holding onto your togs for dear life, unless you’re prepared to get up for a sunrise dip.
Biarritz is also totally walkable, only a 10-minute stint to the airport or stations. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel as though you’ve uncovered some secret operation as opposed to another mega-touristy beach spot. It’s a tantalising, head-tilting dichotomy of foreign and familiar, which I’m totally obsessed with and haven’t observed before.
Where to shop in Biarritz
For an à la mode spot to sink your teeth into some shopping and bopping, I’ve done the legwork (20,000 steps a day in Havaianas, to be precise).
Sunburn Store
This is one to chuck in your maps and trek the hilly backstreets, as it’s completely off the beaten track. A print-lover’s haven, it contains a small curation of magazines and books that share a beachy commonality. They stock a tight mix of indie surf-y brands, including No Problemo.
49 Av. Maréchal Joffre
Bleu mon Jules
You’ll find gorgeous and souvenir-worthy Biarritz casualwear at this cute corner boutique. Super nautical and charming, this shop has some great Breton-striped long-sleeves, beachy linen shorts and menswear that would make a stunning gift for the homme in your life.
45 Rue Gambetta
Tussi
Voilà, a three-level vintage store right by the Airbnb I was staying at. They had some darling Dior slides, Prada pumps, Diesel accessories and many other pretty, pre-loved treasures. This was a fun one to wander into and play dress-up.
2 Rue de la Maison Suisse
Madame, Monsieur and Balzac Paris
I’d put these boutiques in the same category as higher-end womenswear. They both stock an assortment of quite expensive and beautiful things. If you’re looking to make a splurge on something extra-special while in town, I’d let that fierce afternoon ocean breeze blow you in here after a glass or two of French rosé.
6 Av. Victor Hugo
54 Av. Edouard VII
Where to eat in Biarritz
Loky
Loky is lauded as the pinnacle of takeaway (or sit-in, but it’s petite) specialty coffee spots in town. You’ll note a line out the door forming before they open at 8am, and you’re always greeted with warmth. I clocked this every morning on my big, long walks up to the Extola Bibi lookout point.
47 Rue Gambetta
Hino
This is where I’m writing from. It’s a rare laptop-friendly locale with tiled floors, plush green sofa chairs and marble-topped timber islands. It’s the perfect spot to plonk for a bit of work, reading or downtime. The iced latte is actually good, which Biarritz surprisingly does well at multiple venues. And there’s even a large communal coworking table in the back living room-like section, plus a cute courtyard out back.
3 Rue de Larralde
Chez Adam
A must for macarons and basque cakes galore. This local hero literally wafted butter onto the street like it was nobody’s business, lulling you into a trance to walk straight in the door. Locopolo is also the it-and-a-bit place to procure your quintessential Basque cheesecake slice — it would be criminal not to.
27 Pl. Georges Clemenceau
Bleach
This is adjoined to Sunburn Store, so it’s a real ‘if you know, you know’ option for your breakfast, lunch or coffee needs. I brought my book and enjoyed a jus d’orange in the sun on the front patio, but you can tuck inside and marvel at the technicolour, retro interiors on an overcast day.
49 Av. Maréchal Joffre
Paddo
Usually when I hear the words ‘Australian-inspired’ next to a hospitality recommendation while abroad, I will squirm. But Paddo is truly one of the most vibey, modern and considered options for a smashing (and yes, nostalgic) brunch and iced latte. I savoured the generous helping of avocado on toast, loaded with fresh EVOO, feta, lemon and love. We spoke to the owner, who is indeed French — he and his brother founded this jackpot dining institution after travelling Down Under.
47 Rue d’Espagne
Dimanche
Red interiors and lantern adornments with lots of dark, brooding timber make this a really divine place to enjoy a Scandinavian-looking brekky plate with French jambon et fromage and dippy eggs. It was a refreshing and brief break from croissants and baguettes on repeat. They’re known for shifting to a focaccia-only menu at lunchtime, which looks exceptional.
12 Av. de Verdun
Where to dine, drink and dance in Biarritz
Le Basta
This is where you’ll find the young surf clique hanging out when the sun turns golden. Think pintxos and cocktails at a hole-in-the-wall bar overlooking the majestic vistas of the sea. It’s definitely the fashionable choice if you want that on-the-water, elevated sunset spot, without falling into a tourist-trap counterpart nearby.
31 Bd du Général de Gaulle
Bar Jean
This is the dinner destination that just kept cropping up relentlessly in my pre-trip research, and also came recommended by French people I know. It’s been an icon in the Les Halles district since the ’30s, right near the markets. For atmospheric energy and classic Basque plates, this is the no-fuss spot that caters to a range of ages, locals and visitors alike.
5 Rue des Halles
Bibi Extola
Whether it’s on your morning coffee trot or for afternoon cocktails that spill into sunset dinner, this is the very Australian-looking, timber-clad spot perched way up on a hill, overlooking all of the surfers in action on the water. It’s definitely one for non-verbal time spent gazing out into the abyss, and equally fantastic for an iced latte or espresso after an morning run.
Square Jean-Baptiste Lassalle
Le Surfing
The god-tier dinner hangout with an amphitheatre-like steps set-up for you to sit and admire the sunset going down over the sea. We shared a divine salad and some croquettes, washed down with the best Aperols in the area. You need to trek down some serious hills for this one to get right down on la plage, but worth the journey and certainly one reserved for those in the know.
9 Bd du Prince de Galles
Nelly’s and Agapii
These are my two hitlisters for blissful takeaway options that veer away from traditional French eating. Nelly’s is a smash burger temple, situated dreamily next to a nice park area for a grab-and-go picnic of dreams. The crinkle-cut frites are delicious and the burger was a real treat upon arrival on my big travel day.
Agapii is one you can perch at and dine in for (as I did for an alfresco lunch), but you can also take one of their ridiculously fresh and lip-smacking gyros away with you. I know it feels a bit gauche to be doing pitas in Biarritz, but this was hands-down my favourite thing I ate in my six days cosplaying a local. Unbeatable fresh salad, tzatziki, spit-roasted crispy chicken, paprika-doused chips and other delicacies are rammed inside. The housemade lemonade also went down a treat on a hot day.
21 Av. du Jardin public
2, rue du Helder
Things to do in Biarritz
Les Halles de Biarritz
Whether it’s a morning brew from Lobita or half a dozen oysters and a vino at noon, these famous indoor markets are bustling and bursting with local delicacies. If a picnic is on your radar, you definitely need to detour here first to secure the provisions and soak up the French chaos.
Surf Lessons
For the adventurous among us, a surf lesson is one way to splice your eating and drinking and beaching with some movement. There are plenty of local service providers in the area who host morning sessions for everyone from total novices to the intermediate Aussies.
Day trip to San Sebastian by train
My Eurail pass covered a day trip to San Seb, only taking a breezy two hours by train to get to the culinary capital of the Basque Country. Take in all of the tapas and Belle Époque architecture, have a dunk in the ocean and return to Biarritz all before dinnertime. It’s the most casual commute to a Michelin-starred lunch you’ll ever take.
Keep up with Genevieve here.
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