City Guide: Where to shop, eat, drink and stay in Hanoi
words and photography by lekhena porter
Vintage shopping, unbeatable phở spots, Old Quarter charm.
Here at Fashion Journal, we want to unearth the hidden spots in cities that only the locals and seasoned travellers know about. There’s no gatekeeping here – this is a breakdown of the best bits: the underrated date spots, treasure trove op shops and the most awe-inspiring places you’ll want to go back to.
Recently, we felt travel envy through the lens of one of our favourite Melbourne photographers, Lekhena Porter. “Last month, my girlfriend and I spent two weeks in northern Vietnam for our anniversary. Hanoi quickly became one of our favourite cities and we’re itching to go back,” Lekhena tells us.
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“It’s a town steeped in history, culture and contrasts. French colonial buildings stand above hole-in-the-wall phở spots, the hum of scooter horns forms the city’s soundtrack,” they say. “Hanoi is absolutely sprawling and can be a bit overwhelming at first, but even in our short time there we managed to discover plenty of spots well worth checking out.” From vintage shopping to the best nail art, find Lekhena’s recommendations below.
Where to stay in Hanoi
Kecho
Kecho is a Hanoian-style hotel in the Old Quarter with incredibly charming traditional decor. I loved fueling myself on a mix of Vietnamese and Western food at the buffet each morning, before a long day of exploring. The rooftop bar became our favourite place to unwind after a day of navigating Hanoi’s busy streets.
On slower days, we also made use of the in-house spa for some much-needed R&R. One takeaway I had from Vietnam is that the hospitality and tourism scene is next level. The staff at Kecho went above and beyond – even a week after we had already checked out, they organised a bus for us to our next destination.
2 Ng. Trung Yên, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Concon House
A cute boutique hotel located just off the famous Ta Hien ‘Beer Street’ but tucked away in a quiet alley. For a first visit to Hanoi, it’s hard to beat the Old Quarter and while it is touristy, it’s exciting to be in the thick of it all. As the sun falls behind the city skyline, the entire street fills up with tiny plastic tables and chairs as bars and restaurants overflow. Street vendors wander around enticing travellers with snacks, fresh draught beer and cigarettes. Dance music and cover bands blast out into the balmy night. Of course, we heard none of this seven floors up at the peaceful Concon House.
11 +13 Ng. Nội Miếu, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Capella
Treat yourself to a bit of luxury at Capella Hanoi, a maximalist hotel just across the road from the Hanoi Opera House that draws inspiration from the performing arts. Every corner feels like you could be stepping straight into a scene from The Great Gatsby, the attention to old-world glamour is phenomenal, every ornate detail has been thought out. A lot of other luxury hotels are really… boring, so I honestly love the commitment to a theme.
11 P. Lê Phụng Hiểu, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Where to shop in Hanoi
Vintage Hearts
Vintage Hearts is tricky to find, which somehow makes discovering it even more satisfying. Duck down an unassuming alley, squeeze through a sardined maze of parked scooters, climb two flights of stairs, and you’ll find yourself in a curated space filled with noughties denim, flowing maxi skirts, kitsch-but-cute handbags and perfectly worn vintage tees.
28 P. Hai Bà Trưng, Cửa Nam, Hà Nội
Howl Vintage
Shopping in a city known for mass-produced, outdoor brand knock-offs, Howl Vintage was a breath of fresh air. A Japanese-style American vintage store (iykyk), Howl had some absolute gems when it came to menswear. An eclectic mix of vintage T-shirts and retro outdoor brands, we snapped up a few pieces, but what really put this spot on this list is that while we were shopping, the owner was diligently scrawling on a piece of paper. When we were ready to leave, he revealed he had been writing his own list of recommendations for places to shop and eat for us!
10 P. Cửa Đông, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Gnien
Gnien sells clothes for cool girls. It’s an incredibly curated secondhand store that feels reminiscent of Melbourne secondhand boutiques à la Moods or Lune Selects. There’s a price point to suit everyone, with a mix of premium designer and well-curated thrift, alongside their in-house upcycled range. I was absolutely feral for their range of accessories, from chunky vintage sunnies, mother-of-pearl hair clips and clacky geometric bangles, to cute designer boots and kitten heels.
104 P. Lạc Chính, Ba Đình, Hà Nội
The Raw Compound
A huge, brutalist, multi-brand store, The Raw Compound is the spot for streetwear. Every label stocked is Vietnamese, and there’s a strong sense of experimentation running through the curation: graphic-heavy tees, skate influence, Vietnam War references; pieces that feel rooted in local youth culture, not an imitation of international streetwear.
180 Đ. La Thành, Ô Chợ Dừa, Hà Nội
Nos.scents
Right next to The Raw Compound, we stumbled across Nos.scents, a gorgeous boutique perfumery which had a huge range of local and international fragrances. The space itself feels intimate and deliberate, more like a sensory archive than a retail shop.
180 Đ. La Thành, Ô Chợ Dừa, Hà Nội
Where to eat and drink in Hanoi
Phở Khôi Hói
I think one of the best things you can do while travelling anywhere overseas is try to tick off some street food recommendations from the Michelin Guide. We worked our way through a handful of Bib Gourmand-rated beef phở, and Phở Khôi Hói was definitely our number one. There was no line on arrival, the service was relaxed (other places really try to rush you out to make room for new customers), the broth was clear and fragrant with a deep flavour, and generously garnished. Alongside savoury fried doughnuts and a drink, we spent less than four dollars each, incredible!
50 P. Hàng Vải, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Bancong
A day-to-night cafe and restaurant, Bancong is incredibly central without feeling like a typical tourist spot. While we were staying in the Old Quarter, we visited this cafe every day for the most rich, velvety egg coffees (a must try while in Hanoi!) but as the sun sets, you can cozy up with a glass of local wine on one of Bancong’s gorgeous balconies and watch the hustle and bustle of the Old Quarter below.
Số 2 P. Đinh Liệt, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Hudson Rooms
Also another excellent spot for sunset, Hudson Rooms provides a stunning panoramic view of the city. The place to be for an expertly mixed cocktail and half a dozen oysters.
11 P. Lê Phụng Hiểu, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Backstage
We had to go all out for our final night in Vietnam, but we still wanted local flavours and Backstage truly delivered. Our waiter rolled out an entire tiered tray with pickles of every colour for us to select to accompany our meals. We devoured the Hanoian specialty dish bun cha, alongside a betel leaf-wrapped wagyu and wild-caught tiger prawns. Topped off, of course, with a couple of their signature cocktails and a decadent dessert.
11 P. Lê Phụng Hiểu, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
How to spend an ideal day in Hanoi
Wake up, hit the streets and find yourself an egg banh mi – no recommendation here, the one closest to your accommodation with a line of locals is going to do the trick. Follow it up with an egg coffee; we need protein and caffeine to fuel a big day of mooching around the city.
Go get your nails done, treat yourself. The quality of nail artistry in Vietnam is next-level, and the conversion rate isn’t too bad either, so it’s a good excuse to go all out and get that extra nail art that you might not get back home. Our salon of choice during this trip was Olyv, and while I politely got told off a few times for my inability to stay still for two hours straight, I left with some of the best nail art of my life.
Immediately after leaving the salon, you can get some cute snaps at the vintage-style photo booth across the road. A fun souvenir to take home, not that Melbourne is short on photobooths.
Next, work your way through the myriad of vintage stores Hanoi has to offer. Pause for lunch at some point (Michelin-rated phở, remember!). Follow up with a little more shopping. If you’re not done with decorating yourself, consider some tooth gems. Viet Jewelers are a jewellery store that specialises in dental adornment, including grills!
As the sun begins to set (and assuming it’s the weekend), you should head to the Hanoi Night Market for some street food. Grab something to snack on as you wander. My go-to was a bag of freshly chopped fruit dusted with chilli salt, equal parts sweet, sour and spicy.
Take your snacks for a lazy stroll along the Hoàn Kiếm Lake. The lake comes alive in the evenings with families, couples and groups of friends gathering along its shores. You might even be lucky enough to catch a V-Pop idol group doing a street performance.
Finally, I recommend book-ending any day of travel with a bit more pampering. Head to a spa for a massage, maybe some cupping.
For more Vietnam travel tips, head here.
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