City Guide: Writer and publicist Genevieve Phelan’s favourite spots in Byron Bay
WORDS BY CAIT EMMA BURKE
“Being there always feels like a big, warm kiss of sunshine on your face or a hug from an old friend.”
Here at Fashion Journal, we want to unearth the hidden spots in Australian cities that only the locals know about. There’s no gatekeeping here – this is a breakdown of the best bits of our cities. We want the underrated date spots, favourite restaurants, treasure trove op shops and the bars people will always want to go back to.
This week, we’re hearing about Melbourne-based writer and publicist Genevieve Phelan’s must-see spots in Byron Bay. The iconic coastal town has long been one of her favourite places and “has served as the unofficial backdrop” to some of her “most iconic adolescent milestones”. Recently, she spent five nights there with her boyfriend and beforehand she combed through TikToks, articles and friends’ recommendations to compile an indulgent itinerary.
For more content like this, tap through to our Life section.
“I’m a mad foodie and sartorial magpie but also appreciate the simple pleasures of a balmy bike ride to the beach, the art of eccentric people-watching and dancing like idiots to Sneaky Sound System at the legendary Beach Hotel. Byron Bay has all that a holiday needs – the best elements of city life (wine bars, great cafes, wellness studios) with the magnetising beauty of Wategoes Beach, the less-chartered hinterland and stacks of hidden gems in between,” she tells us. Below, Genevieve shares some of her must-see spots for any first-time visitors.
Eat
Ciao, Mate!
View this post on Instagram
Friends suggested this one and it exceeded all of our Italian date-night dreams, serving as a primo dinner idea in Bangalow. Sit in the courtyard, dotted with kitsch red-and-white checked tablecloths reminiscent of your last trip to Rome, and order a bottle of Pan Opticon to share. The pasta was hot, heady, and lip-smacking, but the pizza (served atop empty tomato tins like a little pedestal) was the real showstopper. We ate too much, and that’s the only way to dine here.
The Smoking Camel
View this post on Instagram
A multi-sensory experience, this place is for someone who adores Middle Eastern cuisine, fancies playful cocktails and can appreciate the tactfully gaudy decor. It feels like you’ve just stepped onto Aladdin’s magic carpet, with technicolour interiors reminiscent of a castle. The loud aesthetics aren’t overcompensating for anything, and the food was exceptional (which is no surprise seeing as it’s from the team behind Light Years).
Months on, I’m still thinking about the perfect finger-lime-topped oysters here – the best shucks we had all trip, on par with Raes. You simply must try a Turkish Delight cocktail and come here as the launchpad to a fun night in the centre of town.
Kouzina
View this post on Instagram
Grab an Uber just off the main street to find this atmospheric and authentic taverna. Don’t be fooled by its surrounding home (an unassuming industrial area), Kouzina is a BYO Greek spot with bang for your buck. Bring a bottle (or two) of your own and sit down for a banquet, showing off all the best Grecian treats like taramasalata dip and pita, skewers of flame-licked meats and rustic cooked veggies.
It’s hearty, warm, vibey and feels like you’ve been let in on a little secret. This would be an excellent spot for party-starting with a big crew if you’re after some at-home dinner party ambience.
Drink
You Beauty
View this post on Instagram
Aside from the obvious hyper-saturated, waitlisted venues for a vino (like Raes), there are some unique wine bars and cool pubs (technically) outside of Bryon itself but within arm’s reach. Conveniently around the corner from Ciao, Mate!, this is a stellar before/after dinner spot, or for a trip of its own.
It’s giving moody and romantic wine bar vibes (sans pretension) akin to a Don’s in Prahran. We just had a glass of orange wine each here as a cheeky ‘dessert’, sat at the bar and appreciated some live jazz. It’s cosy but bustling, I even ran into a friend of a friend on the way out.
The Eltham Hotel
View this post on Instagram
This one comes heavily recommended on socials by every chef or gastronome that goes to Byron – they always give some kind of special mention to The Eltham. It’s a giant, retro, character-exuding pub in the middle of nowhere, and I wish I’d been hungry enough when we went to sample a proper meal.
We rented a car one rainy day to trek out to Killen Falls, went for a mini hike and parked ourselves in the beer garden. It has a special old-world pub charm with a surprisingly high-calibre menu. We split the best chips and gravy ever and had a cold pint each. It’s the ultimate rural-ish spot that gives ‘if you know, you know’ energy.
Shop
Twoobs
View this post on Instagram
This shop is the equivalent of sunshine distilled and it’s a relatively new unveiling from the Twoobs family. Go for the amber-toned interiors and stay to try on squishy sandals, practically made for a nomadic sand-to-surf Byron fashionista. I have a cobalt blue pair that will venture to Europe with me next – they’re rockpool and dance-floor proof.
The Sunseeker
View this post on Instagram
Not a shop, but a gallery-esque hotel. We stayed at The Sunseeker for our trip and adored the luxe-motel aesthetic. A special mention has to go out for its ‘lobby’ area that feels akin to a boutique, where you can buy the chicest tote bags, ‘Holiday Often’ inscribed caps and cute hotel-room keyrings. Out in the Hinterland, the character-filled Sun Ranch has a similar thing going, with a considered retail space where guests can shop for local brands and merch.
Rowie
View this post on Instagram
The girls at Rowie were so friendly and exuded laissez-faire hyper-cool-girl Byron status. The brand is an independent, women-led fashion label based here, thanks to eponymous local founder Rowie Moore. She used to sell her early designs at local market stalls and now has a lofty brick-and-mortar space to tell a full-circle story. Rowie has great denim sets and special takes on everyday staples like this lace-detail top.
For more Byron Bay recommendations, head here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
