A perfumer’s guide to finding your signature scent
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ilsa Wynne-Hoelscher Kidd for Better With Friends
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
What’s in a scent? According to a 2021 BBC article, your fragrance can reveal some pretty crucial information to the world. Agnieszka Sorokowska, a psychologist and expert in human olfaction at the University of Wroclaw, told the journalist it’s been proven we can make assessments about people’s personalities simply based on their perfume choices. No pressure.
So when it comes to finding a signature scent, there are some important factors to consider. Sweet, citrusy or woody? Scented oil, solid perfume or the classic eau de toilette (which I learnt translates to ‘grooming water’, fittingly)? Le Labo’s Santal 33 or Victoria Bitter’s best-selling stubby scent?
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.Finding a forever fragrance is no small feat. And with the boutique Australian fragrance industry on the rise, I decided to consult the experts. Ciara Mahoney and Elle Wallace are the pair behind Sśaint, the Sydney-based perfumery handcrafting gender-neutral, cruelty-free fragrances. Below, Ciara and Elle share their top tips for finding a signature scent.
When it comes to finding a signature scent, where’s the best place to begin?
As fragrances are a deeply personal addition to your wardrobe, it’s always best to experiment with the fragrance notes you gravitate towards. Most fragrance brands these days offer a ‘discovery set’ that allows you to explore the full collection. Our advice is to purchase this before committing to a larger bottle and getting a feel for each unique blend of fragrance. You’ll more than likely find your go-to signature scent this way.
Can you explain what a ’scent profile’ is? Why is it important when finding a signature scent?
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A scent profile categorises a fragrance into a group and different combinations. When looking at the fragrance wheel, a circular diagram represents every scent; [which is then] divided into four main olfactory families – oriental, woody, fresh and floral and then subfamilies within them.
Perfumers know the relationship between each of the main families. As a starting point, when curating a scent profile it’s best to look at the neighbouring families on the fragrance wheel… scents close by on the wheel will blend harmoniously.
Which is the most important note: top, middle or bottom? Or are they all important for different reasons?
Fragrances are composed of three key factors: a top note, a middle note and a base note. They are all equally important, playing a role in how the fragrance develops and evolves during the day on your skin.
How should we be applying perfume?
First and foremost, the golden rule is to spritz your perfume onto your moisturised pulse points (neck and wrists), [as] this ensures longer-lasting wear. Just spray, don’t rub as it adds heat and bruises the perfume. [This] interrupts the natural course of the top, middle and base notes of the fragrance. When it comes to discovering your signature scent, it’s all about experimenting and layering the notes you gravitate towards.
Can we layer ’signature scents’? How do you know which scents go together?
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Layering fragrance is a bit of trial and error. Typically, two perfumes on opposite sides of the fragrance wheel make good combinations. For example, citrus scents and woody scents in your collection of fragrances work well together, as they tend to project smoothly and adapt to most notes. Our best advice [is to] experiment and have fun while doing so!
Once chosen, how do you start making a scent your ’signature’?
This will vary between individuals and how they [choose to] wear their fragrances. We love going for unique layering combinations for a more distinct signature; [one that’s] instantly recognisable as your own.
You can try little things like spritzing your hair, the inside of your handbag and even furniture at home… this will help the fragrance become synonymous with you.
For more on finding a signature scent, head here.
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