What exactly does a hair oil do and how do I use it?

The great multitasker of the haircare world.

Oily hair means dirty hair, at least that’s what we’re taught from a young age.  So the thought of running an oil through freshly washed hair seems counterintuitive at best and at worst, a terrible idea. Why spend all that time cleansing and conditioning your hair only to make it oily again?

Admittedly, I may be a little slow to jump on the hair oil train (the girlies on TikTok have been screaming about it for some time), but I’m here now. My hair oil is now my favourite tool to smooth frizz, add gloss and knuckle down the pesky flyaways that keep escaping my slicked bun.

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I’ve only just stretched the surface, too. After speaking with two industry experts, it turns out there’s a lot more hair oil could be doing for my hair. From nourishing it from the inside out to maintaining my blowdry throughout the week, it seems a hair oil might be the most valuable player of any hair care routine. But first, the basics.

What exactly is a hair oil?

A little more refined than the olive oil you’ll find in the kitchen (though my Italian aunt also swears by that technique), hair oil is the great multitasker of the haircare world. It benefits all hair types, particularly dry or damaged hair, and can be used before your wash, as a leave-in conditioner or for styling.

The idea behind a hair oil is to improve manageability and overall hair health, but different hair oils will be specially formulated for different needs, so it’s important to shop carefully. Typically, hair oils will fall into one of two camps: oils that penetrate the hair shaft and nourish from within, and oils that seal the hair, adding gloss and shine.

What are the benefits of using a hair oil?

Overall, hair oil can enhance the health, appearance and manageability of your hair. Its benefits include moisturising, adding shine, reducing frizz, strengthening, protecting from damage, improving manageability, promoting growth, soothing the scalp and enhancing colour. “The main reason I like to use hair oil is for the styling benefits,” says Creative Hair Artist and Founder of Alchemy Salon, Becc Snow. “It’s a great finishing product after styling the hair, and for maintaining the style throughout the week until wash day comes around again.”

Will it make my hair oily?

No, using a good hair oil shouldn’t make your hair oily if you’re using it right. “Think of an oil for your hair like an oil for your face. It doesn’t make your skin oiler, just more hydrated,” notes People Haircare Founder Katherine Ruiz.

She recommends starting with a small amount, avoiding direct contact with the scalp, and choosing lightweight oils that are less likely to weigh down your hair. “Then adjust the frequency of use based on your hair’s needs.” 

It’s also important to choose the right formula. Becc notes the wrong hair oil can hinder your hair growth and ultimately make it more difficult to manage. “Low grade hair oils can include ingredients that will build up on the hair and not wash out, leaving your hair heavy and greasy. [They can] actually end up drying your hair and scalp out long term,” she warns.

What if I already have oily hair?

It’s a fair question, but as Katherine notes, people with oily hair generally have oily roots and dry ends. For those whose hair tends towards oiliness, she suggests opting for a lightweight formulation and only using it when needed, rather than for daily styling. 

What should I be looking for when choosing a hair oil?

Like with any beauty product, there’s an overwhelming range of hair oils on the market. It can be difficult to know where to start. Katherine suggests looking for lightweight oils that absorb easily, contain natural ingredients, and suit your hair’s needs.

Don’t be afraid to try before you buy, either. A quality hair oil shouldn’t leave much behind. “Rub some in your hands to ensure it’s absorbed into the skin, disburses and doesn’t leave a residue,” she says. 

How do I use my hair oil properly?

Both Becc and Katherine praise hair oil as a multi-use product with a lot of different benefits. There are a few general rules though. Always begin with a small amount (you can build up later), and warm it between your palms. Run your fingers through your ends and mid-lengths, then see how your hair responds.

You might decide to oil your hair daily, or adjust the amount you’re adding. “You may want to cocktail it with your favourite styling products for greater viscosity and hydration,” adds Katherine. “It all comes down to preference and a lot of it is trial and error. Everyone’s hair type is different.”

Which hair oil should I buy?

”My favourites are Frizzy Logic by O&M and Reflection High Shine Serum by Dungud,” says Becc. “These both give anti-frizz benefits, as well as adding shine and softness to the hair throughout the week.”

For those looking for a more accessible price point, People Haircare’s Frizz Free Oil is $16 at Coles with a penetrating formula designed to nourish, hydrate, reduce frizz and add shine to the hair.